I’m having a crazy idea here. What if I made this kit with the pieces it comes with, then make another one from a better manufacture and using photo etched parts? I figure I could put then next to each other on the same base as if they wear advancing together. A small pin attached to the bottom would assure theyre placed in the exact place every tme
A quick supergluing of a magnet in the hull and they can be removable to look at the details.
This article breaks down the kit you own (referred to as the Esci kit) along with the excellent Revell of Germany kit and the Dragon kit is very good as well.
http://www.onthewaymodels.com/articles/SBrezinski_Stug3_Revell_Dragon.htm
That little part had that block that the end of the cutters are stuck through. It’s a crude attempt at a clip that held it on, or a socket they stuck into. You can cut the handles and the jaws off of the sides of it and glue it on alone, or a scrap of plastic about the same size. Gives the model a little bit of a “lived in” quality.
I know, its micro small.
What gap filler / ejection mark fillers do you guys suggest? Some of these long skinny pieces have honkin ejector pin marks. Thanks.
Use pieces of stretched sprue to fill the gaps/holes and drip a lot of Yamiya extra thin over it. It will melt the bit of sprue into the hole and once it cures overnight you can then sand the piece as you would any other piece of plastic. Just be careful with the tiny parts! 
rails and stuff
It just too small for my Shrek fingers…but yes, that cammo should look great.
Not a picture update but I’d like to say thanks for the suggestion of usign superglue to fill in ejector pin holes. Even though I’m using foam safe superglue and foam safe kicker, it sems to be working fine. Just gotta wait a bit longer for it to dry.
Great job so far! I like that camo pattern you have picked out for it.
UPDATES!!
Mostly more little bits and bobs.
