I was in the LHS over the weekend innocently asking some tamiya product questions & spotted a Do335 in 1/48 from Revell (not Revell Germany). Does anyone know anything about the kit? I’ve got one - from Dragon - in 1/72 and remember thinking it’s a pretty large machine. I’d love to do a larger one, but I’ve had mixed results with Revell in the past. Seems like a good price for the kit, if it’s decent. Any ideas?
Vance
The Revell 335 is the Monogram kit from the late 70’s (78?). It’s not a bad kit considering its age.
Hmmm, late '70s probably means raised panel lines doesn’t it? But it’s probably 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a Tamiya kit with recessed lines. Decisions, decisions…
Yep, raised panel lines and typical Monogram features, Separate flaps, One or two seat options, optional open engine bay doors showing half-relief engines moulded into the fuselage.
Vance, I have both. The Tamiya goes together easier, but doesn’t have the option of two seater trainer/night fighter versions.
Cedric
Thanks for the info fellas. Mechtech - we’re practically neghbours, I’m on the other side of Saint John! How are you enjoying the “showers” that were in the forecast… I had to shovel mine!
Vance
I’ve never done the Tamiya Pfeil (why would I?), but have built the Monogram/Revell Do 335 several times… Aside from raised panel lines and a minor fit issue with the front windscreen, it’s a fine kit… As noted, you have three options with it. The single-seat fighter, the two-seat Nightfighter, or two-seat trainer… I don’t know if the current Revell release includes the PE parts though… Probably not. It includes two figures, a mechanic and an armorer… There’re also after-market parts for it available, although I don’t know anything about those, being a scratch-builder (and a cheapskate)…
Anyway, for 18.00 or so, you still get pretty good kit… And for the price of one Tamiya single-seater, you can build the single AND two-seater with the Revell kit…
Yes I could, and that’s where I’m torn! (But at the same time, where would I put two of them, let alone one!!) I do preferred the recessed lines, but are they worth that much more to me? I haven’t done a whole lot of scratchbuilding, more “re-purposing” the occasional item for modeling purposes. I don’t remember seeing any reference to the PE parts, and it looks like a brand-new box, so I assume they would have mentioned it.
From what I remember of building Dragon’s 1/72 version, most of the panels are fairly large, mostly straight lines, and not horribly complex… so I could try my hand at re-scribing.
It’s not THAT big, especially as twin-engined birds go… It only measures 11 1/2" from spinner-to-spinner and just over 11 1/4" tip-to-tip so basically a one square-foot “footprint”…
As for re-scribing any lines, that’s your call… The raised lines on it are pretty fine, and I’ve never cared about raised or recessed anyway… A lot recessed lines are way out of scale (look like scale 3/4" gaps instead of butt-jointed panels) , and a number of kits that feature them shouldn’t have them as the skin-panels on the real a/c were overlapped & riveted…
As far as I know only the ProModeler version had the PE buckles. And I should know I have the ProModeler kit myself. Hans your right the kit does look pretty straightforward constructionwise but also note it is a tailsitter so weight should be added to the front.
Yeah, I got a Pro Modeler too, along with the older Monograms… PE from PM is like throttle quadrant, buckles, boarding ladder, gear door interiors, all that crap…
Plenty of room in the nose for weights, or you can use the clear post to prop the tail up…
I have the old Monogram kit purchased in the 1980s and a Tamiya 2 seater I picked up on sale at Hobby Lobby for $15.00.
The Tamiya’s main advantage is a better interior.
The Monogram will look every bit as good as the Tamiya kit when it is sitting in a display case.
Unless you plan to enter the Dornier 335 in a contest, buy the Revellogram kit.
Just my [2cnts].
Good thought aabout “in the display case” Sprue-ce Goose. After it’s built, who’s going to see the inside of, or any of it up close to be honest.
I’ve got Tamiya’s Storch in progress right now. It’s a beautiful kit & will look very good when done. And with all that glass, there will be all kinds of visible detail, so I am pleased with it. The odd thing I’m finding though - knowing how much detail there is, and how much the darn thing cost, I’m almost paranoid about making a mistake of any kind on it. So I’m thinking a lower priced kit may actually be less stressful in the long run!
VanceCrozier: Your quote “- knowing how much detail there is, and how much the darn thing cost, I’m almost paranoid about making a mistake of any kind on it.” is probably in the back of everyone’s minds.
I’ve delayed building kits either due to lack of reference information, lack of display space or not having acquired skills with some materials.
The 21st Century kits were nice because their inexpensive cost made them useful for practice. The old re-issue Monogram kits and the Eduard Weekend kits are now the relative bargains in a hobby which seems to require a week’s pay-check for every kit completed.
Revell freshened some of their molds up. I believe this was one of them. The kit has recessed lines now. I say go ahead and get it. The price is right and it’ll be a fun build.
I may buy another Revelogram kit just for the kit decals and build multiple versions.
Do-335 aftermarket decals seem to be OOP.
I forgot to mention that, regarding the size of the D0-335, it still will fit on an 8"-wide shelf at an angle… That’s enough space if the wing-tip and stabilizer tip are at the very rear, and the nose gear is about a half-inch or so from the front edge…
Don’t need 'em… Since it never became operational, there weren’t any “official” markings, so you really can’t be “Wrong”… Any 1/48th Late-war Bf-110/Ju-88 set will provide you with the right size national amd unit badge markings… If you want the Staffel numbers (“Yellow 10” or some such), and/or Stabsfurher/Staffelkapitan chevrons, any Late-war 1/32 Me-109 or FW-190 sheets should be pretty close to the right size…
I agree, there were what, 5, actual airworthy airframes completed.
Lucky for us, if deployed in numbers I almost think it would have been a more effective platform than the Me262 was. Ridiculous top speed, better range and dependability from the piston engines than from the jets, no need for babysitters while taking off & landing. You know, assuming there was any fuel for them.
Anyway, this should be an ideal what-if subject, like I did with my He162D in desert camo.
Do-335 markings:
I was actually thinking of “captured” markings as they are the only widespread versions painted on the surviving birds.
The Revell website lists Decal markings for Do 335A-O, fourth prototype 1.Staffel, Versuchsverband des Oberbefehlshabers der Lufwaffe, 1944, D0 335 A-6 (V-10), two seat night fighter prototype, Do 335A-O second prototype, USAF post war test markings and Do 335 A-6 (V-10) Royal Air Force post war test markings. Hopefully the markings are of reasonable quality.
It is possible to scrounge British, American and French ( B model) markings for national insignia. Watson’s Wizzers also painted special insignia on the captured jets. I don’t know if they did the same for the Do-335. [^o)]
Buying a ready-made decal set is just easier…
Herr von Hammer: Thanks for the suggestions for German decal sheets.
If they’re good quality, I usually go with kit decals too. It sounds like there are some folks that are determined to buy aftermarket decals every time for everything. I’m sure there is sometimes a quality issue, or maybe just a “something different” angle, but I have yet to come across decals that are truly horrible in mainstream kits. (OK< I have seen some bad Hobbycraft decs…)
If memory serves, I think I’ve seen pics of a captured Do335 with US markings over bare metal, also a potential standout.
Vance