Does anyone know if this kit comes with curved track and not just straight track
Are you referring to the DML kit? If so, then no.
To the best of my knowledge NO ONE produces 1/35th curved train track
Mark
You can take the ties and rail and make your own curve, glue the ties then heat the rail to form curve. should work ok, keep in mind that you will need more rail on the outside of the curve, so 2 kits might be needed to do what you want. You can make the embankment out of foam and glue the ballest to it.
The Trumpeter set can be used to make your own curves without heating the rails. They are of an “accordion” type with the ties in sections but flexible. In fact, when constructing them for straight runs, they automatically curve and have to be straightened out. Sherman1111 is correct though about the rail lengths being different interior vs. exterior of the curve.
The Trumpeter set is available independent from any kit, but if you want the curve you’ll have to create your own embankment using scale ballast or other material as the included embankment parts are straight only.
Or you can “make” your own track… go to your LHS and buy a cheap section of track; one of the stores I go to sells sections, straight and curved for about 95 cents each. I think 1/35 scale equals N or O gauge (i can’t remember, just ask the hobby store folks, they should know). The track sections will be a little wide, and a little too plastic-model-railroad-like, but if you just remove the metal rails, make your own rail ties with balsa or some other wood, then add some ballast (homemade or store-bought), you have a simple, realistic railroad section. Just paint/weather the rails so they don’t look so brassy. Plus, for curved sections, you don’t have to worry about making the different curvatures of the rails, they are already pre-formed.
Just an idea…I’m just about to start a dio with a rail section and this is the method I’m going to use. Hope it works for you!
How would you do it if you were trying to make it like the track that swithchers into the the other track like were theres 2 train sections and then they have the litlle switch the connects them?
The easiest thing to do would be to buy a #1 gauge switch and modify it to be more realistic. They tend to be more functional than accurate. You may need to move the rails closer together or father apart depending on the actual track gauge the cars you are using were on.
Edit:#1 gauge track is 45mm which in 1:35 scale works out to be 1575mm, a broad gauge track which would be very unlikely in Europe. The world standard is 1435mm and German rail in the 1930/40’s was ISG or 1000mm narrow gauge for local track. 1435mm would be 41mm and 1000mm would be 28.57…mm.