1/35 MaxxPro w/ scratch built RPG netting - Afghanistan 2014 * WIP

After a long hiatus, four years (so far) of Army service and a few quick weekend projects that turned into month long builds, I decided to start a month long build that will no doubt take me quite some time to complete.

I’ve deployed twice to Afghanistan with the biggest benefit being plenty of reference pictures and the layout of vehicles/equipment forever burned into my brain. With all this knowledge, I decided I should build a vehicle that I lived in for a few months overseas. The International MaxxPro MRAP. Very close to my heart [ht]

Kinetic makes a decent kit but it’s either based on one of the early 2007 models or it’s some kind of export model of the MaxxPro. I say this because 1) the version I manned the turret in had some pretty serious differences but 2) I saw this version Kinetic modeled their kit after in service as late as 2014 (maybe still?) with the Romanian Army. So depending on what you want to build, this may very well be a nice kit right out of the box.

I did invest in the Voyager PE set as well (mainly for the sake of the rear ramp stairs. The kit stairs are garbage but we’ll get to that one of these days).

The first challenge I knew I was going to have to overcome (and what has prevented me from starting this sooner) was not only the aforementioned fact that Kinetic’s MaxxPro is of the wrong vintage, but more importantly- every vehicle I saw on Highway 1 (with the exception of some REMF vics that had to eventually be pulled off of FOBs after years of hibernation with the rest of the war effort as we shut the country down last year) had some kind of RPG netting or cage device attached to it.

As I have never seen anyone build an MRAP with such a net, I knew there was likely no AM parts, which meant I’d have to do it on my own.

I thought this meant I would have to try and work with styrene pipe or rod or some kind of mess that no doubt would take too long for the glue to set, would snap when bent or melt if I tried to heat it up, I don’t know, basically I’m not too hot when it comes to scratch building with styrene. It’s too soft and too malleable and I’m just not patient enough.

Then I had an epiphany… why not use brass rod and just solder it in place? Oh right Chris, because the last thing you soldered was some copper plumbing with a blow torch and your Dad’s supervision in the year 2000. At best. But eh… how hard could it be?

And sure enough, here we are…

Shown on a 1/35 (roughly) scale blow up of the MaxxPro diagram from the Kinetic instruction to help give me a basis to bend/cut brass rod- and some of the RPG netting structure already completed. There was a pretty decent learning curve but I think for the most part I’ve figured it out. The actual netting is going to wind up being something like cheese cloth unless someone chimes in with a better idea.

Here’s my workbench by the way

And what I resort to when the “helping hands” aren’t up to the task.

Just some cork board, not trying to burn up my barracks room furniture…

Here’s some progress on the actual kit itself.

First major attempted fix to the kit (unsuccessful representation, but better than nothing?)

I tried to get the turret to sit flush on the roof, the kit (and the other version of the MaxxPro) had a box elevated off the roof about 4 to 6" (in 1/1 scale) that the turret sat on top of. Almost like the whole turret was an after thought when they designed it, so they just plopped it down on top. The version I had was flush, this isn’t a great picture, but you can see just how low the turret sits compared to how the MaxxPro looks on the box art.

Also, you’ll get to see me (the one with the blue colored 1/2 sleeve) playing soccer with the ANA in the foreground.

By the way, unless otherwise noted, all these reference pictures are my own property. Either taken by myself or my coworkers.

At this scale, would vinyl mesh – the kind used to repair window bug screens – be an option?

Hello Chris!

Good to see you back on the forums!

You might want to try to do your own PE parts - I mean draw them (CorelDRAW is best for this) and find a company to etch them for you. I tried it once and it works just fine. The other option could also be to laser-cut them - companies that offer this service are also very popular.

Anyhow, welcome back, good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

Looks like you are off to a good start. I second the window screen or some other type of mesh as opposed to the cheese cloth. Cheese cloth works well for camo nets, but I don’t think it would look right for the RPG screen.

!http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/new-year/confetti-cannon-smiley-emoticon.gifGood to see you back home here with a great debut!

A lot of work but she’s going to look awesome!

Roy, Gino, I think you’re both right. Depending on the size of the mesh screen I think that would work a lot better. Knew you guys would have some ideas. I think the only potential issue I was trying to avoid with the bug screen and using PE would be the effect of the droop. In 1/1 scale these things really are just nets, and there is no stiffness whatsoever to them, they’re not hanging tightly off the framework either, so they wind up drooping pretty noticeably. There’s the issue of the little octagonal discs that are at every net string intersection too, but I think in this scale I’ll be okay to just avoid them all together.

Pawel, nice to see that you’re still around here too, glad to hear from you again. I think the PE screens would work just as well as the bug screens but the bug screens seem easier to get a hold of. That being said if I wind up finding a spot where I need some custom PE I’ve always wanted to try that route as I’ve seen people that design their own stuff to good effects.

disastermaster, glad to be back I’ll have to look through everyones galleries of recent work, I’ve been away at least 4 years from the site, that’s a lot of builds! That Sherman in your signature looks real nice, great photography as well

Gamera, thanks! I appreciate it. I thought it was going to be a lot of work too, but once I had everything figured out for the RPG framework it actually went together pretty quickly, especially once I figured out some good soldering techniques on YouTube ← an invaluable modeling resource these days, I’ve been watching MIG Airbrushing videos and all kinds of walk throughs now, pretty cool that they can upload full length movies instead of having a 10 minute cap now.

Chris, welcome back!

Looks like you’re jumping back in with a grand project as well.

I have another suggestion for the mesh: A number of years ago, I gave in to my wife’s desire to have a pool put in. One of the positives (other than being able to jump in the damm thing after working all day in a 110 degree shop) was the mesh from the worn out leaf skimmers. They last about 3 years, and I’ve been using sections of the old ones for the mesh in bustle racks for a while now. It may be a bit big for what you’re needing to represent, but the ones I’ve been buying lately are actually molded, not woven but look woven, take paint really well and adhere with cryo glue.

I’d be happy to send you a little section of it if you wanna take a look-see… I’ve got a lot. PM me if interested.

www.amazon.com/…/B004GYVL5Y

You can also use bridal viel toole. It is a small octagonal mesh. I use it for turret baskets and the like. It comes in a couple different sizes as well. You can find it at fabric stores. A square yard (about $2.00) will last a lifetime.

Here’s a link to a thread on teh Military Modeling site that may give you some additional photo etch options;

http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=52014

Don

Thanks so much for all the support and tips on the products out there guys! I really appreciate it

RBaer, that actually sounds like an ideal mesh, as it’s not rigid like the the PE or bug screen. That being said, I did wind up finding some bug screen (for free- always a benefit) that looks like its actually dead on in terms of the scale size square holes I needed. It’s a little too rigid but I think that’s the price I’ll pay for the right size. It doesn’t look flat like how some PE mesh (grills really) tend to look. And again, it was free.

Thanks for the link GMorrison, my Dad’s a big HO modeler, I think he actually has a similar kit back home if not the same one. I’d have to hold it in my hand though to see how the holes look in 1/35 and if they were square or that diamond shape that real chain-link has. But I do appreciate it.

Gino, that’d be nice if it came in square mesh instead of octagonal- but that being said octagonal might work for a chicken-wire look if I ever wanted to make some old school WWII allied panzerfaust type mesh (like Steve did with that Sherman build in his signature!)

Thanks Don, that scalelink catalog has some really cool stuff, even foliage, will definitely bookmark that for later.

But as I said, I did get some bug screen and will post a picture of it with the framework as a reference by the end of the weekend, along with some more progress on the styrene.

And a quick update before I head out to do some cardio…

Bug screen (in a pretty good scale I think!)

So this was cool enough for me to stop and take a photo…

All these little bolts are kind of a strange addition for the inside of the undercarriage, you’ll never see it right? So it might be accurate to have them there, but why not use a simpler, more traditional mounting system for the cover part?

Because you can actually see it, the folded piece of plate armor actually has a visible gap (maybe 1/2" on the 1/1 scale MaxxPro) and by building the kit the way they did, it accuratly represents the fact that you can see through that gap to the bolts that hold the plating in place. Too cool! I had actually forgotten about that detail until I noticed the kit had replicated it. So good work on that Kinetic. I applaud your efforts.

Now this masking tape isn’t for painting, I’m actually going to leave it in place and paint over it. It’s just going to give some texture to what would be padded flooring material designed to take some force of an IED blast without transferring it to the feet of soldiers that sit in the back. The cross beams that are bolted to the frame in between these padded mats on the frame floor are actually painted in red and are stenciled in white to the effect of “No Feet” or something like that- don’t put your feet on the cross bars, they are a part of the frame and an IED blast will transfer directly through your foot.

I took a picture halfway through to try and show the difference in texture. Some people use putty or Mr Surfacer, I think masking tape is much simpler.

Hopefully you can see what I was getting at.

Here’s a shot of the bottom-

And you can tell I’ve had to readjust the muffler. In the next two pictures you’ll see that although the original 2007 MaxxPro (still in service with at least the Romanian Army, probably others) has the exhaust like the kit would have you install it- flat and out the back left- our upgraded vehicles had the muffler rotated up at an angle and out the back right.

You can also see in this reference shot, the frame is actually different, as is the rear suspension. It’s not leaf springs but an actual coil, looks similar to what you’d find on a HMMWV. I’m sure one could recreate the more accurate frame curve and the updated suspension. Honestly I’m not sure if the leaf design is found on the original MaxxPro or if Kinetic just made it up, but I imagine it’s accurate given the other details they’ve gotten right. Anyway, I didn’t realize the difference in the frame/suspension myself until I got to the exhaust. Even if I had noticed it sooner, that’s too much modification for me to tackle.

*By the way- That’s me posing for a joke photo carrying everything I was assigned at the time.

-M240L

-M4

-M320

-PAS13

-PVS14

-Helmet and plate carrier

-Backpack full of ammo

You know- just the typical quick swap load out from the Call of Duty video games…

And I’ll leave you guys with a quick mockup

Looking good. The coil spring suspension is known as TAC-4 suspension. It is a later mod; the original MaxxPro had the leaf springs. It is the same suspension on the USMC Mk23 MTVR truck. Trumpeter’s Mk23 suspension could be modified to fit on the MaxxPro.

Nice! Good to know, if I ever revisit it I’ll make sure to snag a Mk23 as well. Thanks for the nomenclature. I’m sure it’ll help anyone else that stumbles across this wanting to build more of a corrected later version.

I’m trying to order some Pro Art Model sets for this, anyone ever order through them before or have a good way to go about doing it through a distributor? The main thing I’m interested in is their MRAP radio set…

www.proartmodels.be/…/product_gal_055.html

It’s designed for the M-ATV, but probably 90% of the components in that set work in the MaxxPro as well.

I really need the DAGR, Kinetic didn’t supply one, and the BFT screen looks a lot better than the one in the kit. Plus the keyboard is necessary. The dual Harris radio mounts, again, look a lot nicer in resin. I’m not too worried about the DUKE box as I’m going to have to scratch a shelving bracket that closes it in.

I’ve already contacted the guys at R&J Enterprises (the only US distributor listed on Pro Art’s website) so even though the sets I’m looking at aren’t listed on their site, it’d be cool if they could order them as the Pro Art’s ordering page seems a little iffy at best.

Have gotten a little farther along… need to take some pictures and I’ll upload them tonight or tomorrow.

Wow, what a BEAST of a vehicle! Cool that you can post your own personal photos of it. It must be so cool to build something that you have personal knowledge of!

Welcome back to the forums too, Chris!

Thanks a lot Karl! It is a pretty cool feeling, two of my buddies have been vying for 1/35 versions of themselves to go with it! haha

I’m glad I got as many photos as I did, some of these vehicles were sold off to various militaries (or even melted down as the rumors went) as we pulled out at the end of last year. I think it wasn’t cost effective to ship them all back stateside. But there’s still US troops over there so who really knows…

I’m sure you know how cool the feeling is though having built that German castle you visited, your own pick up truck with your dirt bike in the back, that rusty old stock class Impala from the abandoned race track (and maybe more that I missed?)

ALTHOUGH I’m sure you also know just how frustrating it can be when the kit doesn’t recreate all those little details that you know are supposed to be there. Or in my case, when it’s a real decent representation of the first generation vehicle and I wound up spending 7 months in a third or fourth (??) generation…

But I’m having fun with it! Thanks for the welcoming message :slight_smile:

Actually, Chris, you’re 100% right! I guess I never thought of it that way, but come to think of it, it’s really the same thing!

And yes, I know the feeling of wanting to make every little detail…I am currently contemplating building my 1984 Chevette Scooter, and will have to change the grille and add trim, etc. That’s about as close to any “tank” I’ve ever driven ,lol.

A later update than I wanted. But I’ve been going slow on some of the photo etch (love/hate relationship)

I managed to finish the exhaust modification

…and just got in my resin AM parts from Pro Art Models today! Really nice radio set. The stretchers look good too. Will be using one on the finished build. Still haven’t decided what color I’m going to paint it though… [^o)]

Here’s an overhead shot, took me most of the week after work and school to get all the seat belts in. I modified the Voyager PE to give the impression of an unbuckled 5 point set up. Still need to go in with sheet styrene and add some more buckles for the shoulder straps, and then use some putty to build the required locking mechanism that would be hanging off the front of the seats. (The extra straps are made of masking tape by the way)

Pro Art Models makes a really nice PE set that replicated our seat belts perfectly http://www.proartmodels.be/productgallery/product_gal_052.html but I wasn’t going to spend even more money on that, and I think they’re only included in the MAT-V detail set.

Another view of the seat belts, tried to get quite a few of them dangling off the sides of the seats as that’s how they would often be found.

And a front cabin detail shot

The dash and the Harris radios/bench are just mocked up there now, will probably leave them off for painting.