1/24 Airfix Spitfire Mk. 1A

Dear fellow modellers.

Have purchased a lot of plastic aircraft models in my life without ever really taking time to properly make one.

Would like to start with above model as over the last few years I seem to have bought all seven of the airfix 1/24’s.

Can anyone out there point me in the direction of any helpful articles specific to building this particular Spitfire?

Also are there any after-market accessory companies who sell decals and interior and/'or exterior accessory sets so I can really superdetail it.

Failing that what about some books?

Failing all the above what about some useful advice from any kind soul who’s tried making one and learned in the process.

Thanks and Regards all.

Boathouse

Here’s a build report on it. Don’t know if you want to read it… the author gave up on the kit.

Here are some photos of the completed kit.

Here are some photos of a Mk Vc- same scale, from Airfix.

Forum member Wulf is build the 1/24 Trumpeter kit. Here are some pics.

I’ve not built the kit myself, though I did take a stab at the 1/24 Stuka 'bout 20 years ago. Ended up selling it to a friend who was more willing to take on the task.

Hope this helps a bit! Welcome to the forum!

You didn’t pick an easy one to start with! This is an old kit (37yrs!) and while it has some features that are better than Trumpeter’s, it has a lot of failings, commensurate with the time it was issued.

The first is that it compromises accuracy for “working” parts. A spinning prop is one thing, relying on styrene hinges is another. I’d suggest that if you want the working undercarriage, then be prepared to live with a little inaccuracy in the wheel well, which, by the way, isn’t boxed in. You have to do that. Or, if you have a Trumpeter Spitfire Floatplane, you can use the spare wheel wells provided with that. Then, you just need to sand it down to fit the wing, and add a piece of thin plastic card, curved over the strut part of the well.

The next thing you should do is paint the engine satin black (just thought I’d get in quick with that one). There are quite a few details missing from the engine bay. If you’d rather build this one not showing the engine, then you’ll save yourself a lot of time and anguish, because the engine panels are inaccurate on the inside, as well, but look fine if cemented in place. Alternatively, you could just cement the side panels and have a “top down” view of the Merlin.

The cockpit is actually pretty good. The seat is much more accurate thatn Trumpeter’s but if you don’t have the pilot sitting in it, then you’ll need to make yourself some harnesses etc. I’m currently making one, and I have the pilot sitting in it:

When it comes back to the wing, the machine guns can be exposed. They aren’t as detailed as the ones in the Trumpeter, or the later Airfix Hurricane. Please yourself if you want the bays open or not, but if you open them, then you let yourself in for a bit of scratchbuilding the gun bay interior structure, which comprises a forward solid face (the rear of the wing spar box) and trusses down either side, and a solid face at the rear. Similarly, for the ammo box bays. Or you could ignore it.

Here is a pic of the gun bay, courtesy of Edgar Brooks:

The battery doesn’t sit on the fuselage floor. It sits on a "shelf " behind the oxygen bottles. The square hatch on the port side (beneath the clear navigation light on the top of the fuselgage) is the radio access hatch. I found that it easier to remove the straps on those bottles, by the way, and replace them with strips of card, than to ignore the moulded detail.

That should get your started, anyway.

Have fun,

Bruce

If you can find it (and it will have to be second-hand,) Patrick Stephens Ltd., who no longer exist, produced a book specifically for that kit. It’s “Spitfire, Classic Aircraft No.1,” and the ISBN is 0 85059 082 5; unfortunately it often refers to paints which are no longer available. There is one major anomaly; the engine bearers have the lead weights moulded onto the front end, but this was only applicable to the few aircraft with the 2-blade prop. The seat has a bracket, at the front, which is for Very pistol cartridges; this was only on aircraft built by Westland, since it was designed for Seafire use. The u/c, since it’s designed to work, has the oleos in their fully extended position, which means that the model sits up at too high an angle. Because of the weight of the wings, it is easy to allow droop to set in, and you can end up with no dihedral; a wingspar is almost essential. Waldron (now produced by Roll Models) supply a set of instruments, and cockpit placards, but you’ll need to replace the original pump-action u/c retraction gear with a scratch-built hydraulic lever system. The harness, that early in the war, should be a Sutton harness.

Edgar