I’ve always wanted to know how to do those anodized exhausts. I knew it was something to do with metallizers; it’s cool to see it done in detail here. I love the Alclad stuff–I use the chrome stuff quite a bit.
You know that you can use decal film from Micro…I forget what it’s called, but it’s basically a liquid decal film from the “Microsol” manufacturer that you spray over the decals and let set. It stops the decals from disintegrating. I’ve used ti to save old decals. Works like a charm. Something to consider for the future.
Doogywoogy - Thanks for the comment and interest. Makes me feel like I might be doin’ alright when guys like you and wild bill comment on my stuff ! Tough enough on here to get any attention sometimes! Perhaps a quick tutorial by you would be cool on the Alclad chrome application,I would be keen to see that.
Trey has a build on here with some great exhaust coloring,as well I read an article in a Scale Model Car supplement recently on this subject. Mine is replicating s/steel pipes which take on their own gold patina as well as very subtle coloring. In a recent post you said you were “all about layering” this is the needed thinking to pull off the exhaust coloring acceptably . Please continue to watch here as I go through the process, as I do document all my steps.On Swanny’s site I have an ongoing M/C STUFF thread ,with other work as well.
As far as the decal goes your tip is filed and I would look at that if the decals are old or of unknown origin.These are brand new decals (I believe) from Hiroboy (excellent service,delivery, etc) ,one would not assume they would be of limited use. I will try your suggestion when I use more of the sheet.You may glean from this I am loathe to comment in the negative regarding others products ,however I wont sugar-coat the truth.
krow, will do; I’m subscribed to your thread here, so I’ll see your progress! I’m not on Swanny’s site, so I’ll count on your work here to enlighten me!
The Alclad stuff doesn’t even need a tutorial, really–it’s so easy. Just spray it over gloss black. Pretty simple!
Ongoin’ with the paint here, all in Tamiya acrylics .White to begin ,then red , then black again.I did seal the c/f decals with a few coats of Future first. WTF am I doin’ ? You’ll see…
krow, I’m interested in how to coat the decals with Future. Did you have to thin the Future with anything? Or do you spray it straight from the bottle/airbrush?
Doog -Thanks for your interest and comment. The Future is sprayed straight from the bottle. With a .5mm tip moving constantly and ‘triggering the gun’ .Triggering is moving in and out of spraying while keeping the air on,this technique allows better feathering. The future is tricky to build up ,the metalflake job I am working on requires separate applications, to bury the flake, over a number of days. Too much on will run off and actually ‘pull’ the layer off with it, kinda like stretching saran wrap ,if ya get my meaning. Too much results in ‘fogging’ as well ,thats ok since it will clear up ,but still a good indicator as to how much has been applied. As you well know the dry time is crucial with this many layers of coating ,more time is best to be sure.
I’ll let these layers dry off and begin the distressing of the mutated paint work in a few days.
krow, thank you for your explanation. That pretty much mirrors what I’d heard. Sounds tricky indeed.
Did you ever try Model Master acrylic Gloss? It sprays fine, and is harmless and easy to apply. Not sure if it exactly matches the shine from Future, but its ease of application might be worth looking into?
Doog -Thanks for your interest.-I am limiting my use of clears in the builds I am on to Future at this point .Each type of clear has its merits. I have used Humbrol clear from the tin for lenses in goggles and guages ,but prefer Kristal Klear for the guages. I have other clears as well but the future is so easy to work with and once the learning curve for application is done it gets real easy. I will definitly look for the MM clear and try it out on something.
I dont know about longevity with the future ,but I build a storage box and a base for all my kits, this will limit the damage from air/dust. You know very well ,Karl , there is little that is new in our hobby ,this is good . One of my favourite parts of all this is the research ,not only the subject but the techniques as well.Looking in FSM issues at your work and wbills and Rick Lawlers modulation article to name a few really helps . I am looking forward to a ‘hairspray’ build in the future as well, as this technique fascinates me.
Thanks for the kind words; it’s always a thrill for me to hear that my work has inspired someone-as your own work is doing here.
I too know the “fun” of research and documentation. It’s great to not only build a great model, but to have a bit of knowledge to impart or learn from your time spent building it. It rounds out the build into a “project”. [:)]
Well ,well, well , I beaked off aboot having proper storage boxes and bases for my pieces. Then I woke up. Realizing I had not done that on this kit I thought aboot it and came up with something a little different , using the same materials as usual ,starting with 1" medite. Cut out the irregular shape and routed the edges ,inverted this time as if ‘offering up’ the piece. Sanded and primed I made 2 others today as well ,one for the Trump , and one for the T-35.All three made it to primer.
This is a post apocalyptic (prolly an overused term) mutant built/maintained/ridden psycho sickle,all this mutant related activity seems to be most prevalent in the Land Down Under. For this base I would like to get, and use ,some of that red ,red ,cruvy dirt from down there.
Agent G from on here was kind enough to participate in the Bobber '47 wip so popular on here, and was given full kudo’s/credit. I can only hope that someone from Oz will step up and help out with this humble request.
I know a lot of people watch my stuff ,the views are there ,and I try to keep it entertaining .Any one from OZ watchin? Yeah yer there ,name yer price for a bag o’ that fine Aussie dirt. Also a pic or two ,with dimensions, of one of those highway signs with a kangaroo warning , ie: (roo shape) next 50K .
Hey krow; just a suggestion–when you get really dark, grainy photos like this, open them up with a program like Microsoft Windows Picture Gallery and hit “Auto Correct”. It brightens and sharpens them up so they look perfectly exposed. It would be a shame to lose your detail in the dark like this. [:)]
Doog-Yes I’m tryna figure out the use of this. I was shooting in the booth but got this soft box.I bought lights as well but the halogen bulbs are yellow,bummer . I am aware of the dingy look of the pix at this point , I will set up some lights later today.
… and here we are with a quick shot or two of some assembly hardware,these are Grandt ,Verlinden and Tichy with a little CMK items ,primed ,gloss black and then Alclad II chrome.
I laid some Alclad II on the wheels ,part of the treatment to come… You will see the masked off rims ,I will follow here with a coat of flat black acrylic.
And showin; my hand a little here with the weapons package components. A 1/16 scale David Parkins Firing Line WW1 SMLE rifle ,suitably mutated into ,well you figger it out…
Here are all the parts with thier various finishes .I still need to distress the body parts and the wheels.Lookin’ at final assembly .I want to finish one model a month this year, got Che’ done ,this may be next.
Wheel work . I tried the hairspray treatment ,first time for me, Alberto VO 5 , when I got a wiff of the stuff it reminded me of me old Mum - Any way I think it looks ok for the mutation situation.
Here is the hsprayed piece.
This is after the flat black acrylic is applied ,cool crackel finish .
After dry time I scrubbed with a toothbrush ,but not too much! ,turned out very nicely.
I was shooting in the booth but got this soft box.I bought lights as well but the halogen bulbs are yellow,bummer . I am aware of the dingy look of the pix at this point , I will set up some lights later today.
