Yet another AFV Club Stryker...Slat's All, Folks!!

Modeling Subjects Armor
1

Greetings all.

I’ve always wanted to document the construction of one of my vehicles from start to finish, and it seems that this project would be a good one to do. I purchased the AFV Club Stryker from my local hobby shop and then dropped subtle hints to my wife about what I would ideally like for my birthday. “What the hell is slat armor?” she asked. As it turns out, it was my evil sister who actually procured the Eduard “Big Ed” set of photoetched parts for me, so if this project eventually puts me into one of those funny canvas jackets with the pretty metal buckles and extraordinarily long sleeves that tie in the back, well, I can blame her instead of my wife.

I’ll spare you all the details about what comes in the AFV Club kit, as others here (most notably Redleg) have posted detailed commentaries on what you get when you open the box. (And may I add that there are few joys in the world greater than the first look inside the box of a new tank kit.) Suffice to say, theres a s***load of parts.

The biggest problem was trying to figure out a good gameplan on where to start. There are about nine sets of instructions between all the Eduard parts and the plastic kit parts. You really have to refer to a couple of the sheets simultaneously to figure out what goes where.

If you think the plastic part of the kit is impressive, you oughtta see the parts included with the Big Ed set.


This is the basic set of parts that comes with the Eduard M-1126 Stryker set.

This is the set of additional armor for the sides of the vehicle, and new stowage racks and belts.


This is the exhaust cover and tiedowns for the front of the vehicle, and a whole bunch more of storage nets and tiedown belts.


Last but not least, the two HUMONGUS frets of slat armor.

The side armor plates seemed like a good place to start. The plastic parts that come with the kit are molded with all the little bolt heads in place, plus some other mounting hardware. They all had to come off. I had considered sanding them off, but then came up with a better idea. I put a router bit into my Dremel tool, rigged the Dremel to my small Craftsman drill press rig, and simply milled the offending parts off. A little sanding was needed, but nowhere near as much as I thought I’d have to.

Side plates sanded flat on both sides. The side plate for the left side of the vehicle had a very narrow section near the side escape hatch, so to save myself later grief, I simply cut the part and turned it into two pieces.

I have more to post, but since my crappy internet connection out here on the Amish Frontier is kinda iffy tonight, I’ll pause here. By all means, let me know if I’m doing this the right way. This isnt the first kit I’ve done with photoetch, but it certainly is the most elaborate. I know not what I have gotten myself into.

Ranger Joe, Defender of Bunnies

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Great idea of using the router bit and dremel. That looks like it worked well. Glad to see you looked over at my post. Hopefully its helpful.

As for the PE…phew, I’m glad there is no kit out for the M1128. But…I have an M1126 on the shelf and will be watching your slat work.

You may want to check out Armorama. There are a couple of really good Stryker guys over there that can also help. Not that I don’t love my friends here but the Germans did not have Strykers [swg].

If there is anything I can help you with, just ask or PM

Rounds Complete!!

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All I can say is, “Whew!” I have this kit, as well as the CAV/TACP. As I have been out of modeling for almost 30 years, until this past year come Jan. '09, I definitely am not ready to tackle these kits. That’s ok, they are part of my meager stash of 42, and I’m looking to improve my skills to take them on. I’ve been working on getting my supplies together (but that’s a different post.) I will be eagerly awaiting updates.

Redleg12,

You do outstanding work, and I always look forward to your builds." You provide me with a great deal of inspiration. Yeah guys, I’m kissing up! He’s a retired officer, and I’m just a former O-3 from the PA Army National Guard. [:D]

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I am glad that after getting ideas and inspiration for many on this site that I am able to give back some. That’s what this site is for…it’s working

As far as this kiss up…we are all brothers…the right pocket said US Army, no matter where you served. Many reserve an NG soldiers are and have served along side the AC in this war and the first Gulf War. We all bleed green [tup]

As far as tackling the M1126…“you have nothing to fear except fear itself”

Rounds Complete!!

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Thanks. Yeah, I’ll be keeping an eye on your progress, because I figure to build an MGS at some point in time (but I kinda doubt I’ll put slats on that one.) I’m also relatively new to the forum, so if I get out of line, please feel free to nudge me back into line. And, since I’ve dropped my drawers and announced to the forum that I’m building this beast, I figure I’ll need all the encouragement I can elicit

Since my

boondock internet system seems to be holding, I thought I’d add some more info about the beast.


I attached a small wooden spool to the inside of the top deck of the Stryker. The center hole threaded perfectly onto an old ball head photo clamp, which is attached to the center post of a crappy old tripod. This allows me to use both of my hands while working, and lessens the chance that I’ll drop the whole darn thing on the floor.

This little bugger is an absolute must:


Maybe not specifically an EtchMate, but some sort of metal bending tool. I should have bought one of these years ago, but never got around to it. I don’t see how you can bend all the slat frames without such a device.


This is the upper rail channel that holds the additional armor plates to the right side of the vehicle. The small tabs along the top correspond to the bolts on the upper deck There are small marks on the rail to show where the armor plates line up.


Vee-ola! Rails top and bottom, plus 2mm dowel rods up front to hold the forward plates on. The instructions called for 1mm diameter, but all I had handy was 1.6mm, so for that I appeal for your collective forgiveness (nobody’s gonna see it anyway.)


One side done! (“…and there was much rejoicing.”)


Right side additional armor.

Coming soon to a modeling forum near you, attaching the stowage racks!

Ranger Joe, Defender of Bunnies

6

Looking good Joe.

You got so much metal, will there be any plastic left when you’re done? [:D]

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Nice work so far !! I will definitly keep up on your build,I will attempt this kit next year,and no I won’t be doing slat armor,but I know I can learn from your job,Thanks for posting.

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Its so pretty!!

(uh…I mean dirty and battle scarred…or soon to be so…um…well…uh…)…[bow]

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I had considered leaving the beastie unpainted, with green plastic and bright silver- and brass-colored metal, but that ain’t the way I roll.

RJ, DoB

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Off to a fine start and you’ve already been successful in devising labor saving approaches! Look forward to seeing more progress. [tup]

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Great start so far… Excellent work removing the unwanted details! Looks like you have it under control but then you still have to build the slats… hahahahahhaha… ahem, sorry… :slight_smile:

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…and the circus continues.

Yet more metal was bent in the name of obsessively compulsive model building, and here are the results:


Little itty bitty teeny tiny bolt head thingies and the strip they mount to.


Previous strip mounted onto the left side armor plates. What exactly is found under that little armored access door on the real vehicle? (I picked up 3 Concord books on the darn thing and havent really bothered to look and find out.)


…and the parade of teeny tiny parts continues as well.


I imagine that eventually someone will come out with a Stryker interior set, but I’m not waiting. I didnt figure to include a full interior, but I do like to include drivers, and if the driver’s head can be seen, so can a little bit of his compartment. I just added a little sheet plastic to make an engine bulkhead, a “generic” radio set, and a sleeve over the front shock mount (it looked a little beefier in the photo I found in the Osprey book.)


I obviously unmounted the upper hull from my tripod rig to test fit it against the lower hull. Meet Larry the Stryker Driver (he’d wave back but he doesnt have any arms yet.)

More later.

Ranger Joe, Defender of Bunnies

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Your becoming a true tin knocker. The metal work looks great.

I agree with the driver. I’ll mount a driver and TC on mine. As for the interior, a great possibility for an AM company…but with the number of parts outside…doing a detailed inside also will be insane.

Rounds Complete!!

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…construction continues, one teeny tiny bit at a time.

Earlier, I promised some side storage racks. Here they be.

…and a headlight assembly. I lost one of the parts and had to fashion one out of scrap.

…and I worked into the wee hours gluing little itty bitty teeny tiny tiedowns onto almost every surface.

Since I sometimes have to reach over the vehicle to access storage drawers on my workbench, I attach alligator clips to the top of the hull as an early warning system…I’d rather brush my arm against an alligator clip than a row of IBTT tiedowns.

…and yet another evening’s project, a completed tool rack. Since the rack is below the storage rack and behind the slat armor, I figured it would be best to build the rack and paint it as a separate assembly, then add it later. The straps holding the tools in place were a big pain in the tucchus, lemme tell ya.

The little wing nut is a nice touch.

More later

Ranger Joe, Defender of Bunnies and Wrangler of Ridiculously Small Parts

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[bow]I’m not worthy! I’m not worthy![bow]

seriously, though, it is looking great! I love the tool rack. I do wish I had the skills and experience to allow me to do that kind of work. (Not to mention the cash to BUY the AM stuff!)

Michael

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WOW, Joe–I just got around to this thread, and have to say that it’s MOST impressive! Nice to see you taking the time and care to document all of this for us mere mortals! [;)]

You’re doing some serious PE work there for sure! I’m still trying to convince myself to get one of those Etchmate things!

Love your signature line, too–I’ve got a “soft spot” for the “Rust Bunnies”, in particular!

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That’s some tedius looking work…looks awesome![tup] I like the tip about the alligator clip early warning system…it’s so simple, it’s brilliant![tup]

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Nice work so far. Yes it’s tedious but it will look great.

Doog, the etch mate seemed like an item that was not needed. Pick one up on ebay used for $15 a while back. For those bigger items, say bigger than the end of flat nose pliers, its GREAT.

For doing anything near the slat work on the Stryker…it is an absolute must.

Rounds Complete!!

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The key is to get somebody else to get it for you. My wife asked me what I wanted for the 11th anniversary of my 39th birthday, so I sent her an Ebay link to the Big Ed set (what the heck, I figured). As it turns out, my sneaky sister grilled my wife about what to get me for a present. My sister said the look on my face when I opened the package was priceless. I have a good sister.

Of course, I still spent $60 on reference materials, $50 for the Etchmate and $30 for the kit, which will make this the most expensive model that I have EVER built…but what the heck, its only money and the Mayan calendar says we’re all toast in four years anyway.

Ranger Joe, Defender of Bunnies

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Thanks!

I keep a beater 2-megapixel Nikon Coolpix 2100 on the workbench - battery door held on by duct tape, CF card door broken off, and teeth marks on the casing from when my collie puppy chewed it up five years ago. It does really well for close-up work, and I can set the white balance to the tungsten bulbs on my work lamps. I also have my old Gateway with Windows 98 nearby, so I can keep a running log of work I’ve done, plus load up images. Part of the reason I’m taking so many pictures (besides posting here) is to load up on my web page so my sister and niece can watch my progress (my niece thinks I’m absolutely insane.)

And yes, if you do a lot of PE work, I think the Etchmate is a good buy. Most of the smaller pieces I’m working on can be bent with pliers or a small copper alligator clip, but anything over about an inch long goes onto the Etchmate.I wish I had this thing when I detailed my 105mm HVSS Sherman Dozer last spring.

Finally, the next time you go to a national park, give the ranger at the entrance station a cookie. He/she will appreciate it.

Ranger Joe, Defender of Bunnies