Hey Fine Scale Modelers, my question is what process is generally followed for painting your planes. I’m curious on what is painted first, the whole plane and mask off to paint the underside the light sky color or paint underside first and then mask it off and then paint the top side? I’ve built two planes recently but they have both been one color. Please take into consideration that I only use rattle cans. Armor and planes were all that I built in my early teen years but I brushed my planes so the two colors weren’t a problem. Please let me know what works best for you, thanks.
Hi, Shoop - Without an airbrush you’re left with either tape masking or brushing. Tamiya tape is my most often used, blue painters tape works well, it can be cut into very narrow strips if needed. Masking fluid is another way, but not always the best results.
Some guys use paper cut to fit, then dampened in order to adhere. Just be sure to blot the surface to be painted until dry. I’ve done it, it can be made to work, but the edges can be prone to lift with pressure of propellant.
There are masking agents available that are reuseable, very thick and can be rolled into “worms,” leaving no residue behind. A search for masking agents should lead to a manufacturer, I think AK might be one, Mig for another.
I’m an airbrusher, but if I need really fine lines I use Tamiya tape, or the blue tape from Scotch. Pretty much foolproof.
Hope you find something that works.
Patrick
Rule of thumb is paint the lighter colors,mask and then the darker colors.
I have also used Frisket, availble in art supply stores. It can be cut into whatever curve you want. Burnish the frisket with a tooth pick to seal it to the surface. You can use blue tape to cover areas away from the edge of the frisket. Stuff cotton into areas such as the cockpit or wheel wells.
Ditto. This usually means painting undersides (or all over) first, then masking (tape, Silly Putty, Blu-Tack, or other magical substance of choice) and doing the topsides and/or camouflage pattern last.
Also ditto to what Rob said, though I tend to use cheap notebook paper or paper towel sections to cover between masking edges, and toilet tissue to stuff into intakes, gear wells and the like. (Just make sure surrounding paints are dry, or you’ll end up with tiny fibers stuck to your finish.)
[:D]
I’m using Tamiya Masking Sticker Sheets now for all of my masking. It can be cut to any shape and seems to be infinitely “re-stickable”, while at the same time not having such an aggressive hold on your paint work that it damages it. It also leaves no residue or difference in sheen to the contact area like other masking tapes I have used.
Thanks guys, I’ll put your tips to good use on my next plane build. I need to finish one of the two vehicles ( 1/12 scale 57 Chevy and a 1/25 Corvette C7-R )I have on my bench now. I’m probably going build my Tamiya 1/48 Raiden Jack next.
Many camo patterns are also done free hand,especially simple upper-lower
As in brushed?
Air brushed
What Tojo said. [H]
I did the JAWS camo scheme on an A-10A using no masking. It came out looking pretty good.
Also free-handed an F-16CJ with the standard grey camo, but that was pretty easy because the pattern is pretty simple.