What the difference between normal rubber track and Dragon’s DS track?
There is no much information provided in the instruction sheet, and Dragon’s website as well.
Thanks in advance.
They glue together with CA glue.Only use acrylic paint and washes as enamels could cause them to stiffen and break.It happened with one of my builds.The ones I did with acrylics about five,have been fine.Many have said that they have found them bad in the box or that they fall apart on their own,that hasn’t happened to me.You may want to invest in AM tracks if you can afford them.There are many options,plastic links,resin links,or metal links.All are nice,but they do add a cost to your build,at least $25-45 dollars.So it depends on your budget.
Thanks you for your reply.
Sound like they are even more figle then Tamiya’s rubber tracks. Acrylic paint only? I will remember this when I build the kit.
Just my opinion on working with DS tracks. Step 1 throw in trash
I could have simply said something like that,but not everyone can or wants to drop extra cash on AM tracks which can sometimes double the cost of a kit.
That is true Tojo I’ve got three kits that came with DS tracks two of them are so warped I don’t think they could of been used and went straight into the trash, one that I tried to use starter busting apart when I went to install them. Also Dragon has started putting DS tracks into kits that originally was released with magic tracks.
DS tracks have their good and bad sides. They will glue together with model cement but you will need to clamp them together and let them dry for a full day.
As the remarks made by others, many DS tracks get damaged while in the kits and depending to the damage may or may not be fixable. I had one set that was damaged out the ten Dragon kits I have assembled. I really like Dragon Magic Tracs.
Many modelers don’t like DS because in order to get the sagg they want with their German armor they have to glue the tracks to the road wheels. Also sometimes the DS tracks are to long or to short, which means they look really saggy or so tight you snap off the idler trying to get them on. I use the DS tracks on all of Dragon American armor because there is no sagg in their tracks and I been lucky that they fit just right. I don’t use them on my German armor at all.
Marcus
Dumb question, what are DS tracks?
DS is a type of softer styrene developed by Dragon, stands for Dragon Styrene. Its most well know use is for tracks which are similar to the rubber band tracks use by companies like Tamiya, though the Dragon ones tend to be better detailed. I have also come across stowage bns on one of their Panther kits made with the same material.
Awww ok, learned something new [:D]
Digging up this topic, if I may…
I got my hands on Dragon’s #6370 Steel Wheels Panther Ausf G.
Unfortunately, it was a reboxed version with DS tracks in place of the Magic Tracks reviewed in the original kit.
I’m checking out metal tracks, but frankly, I don’t feel confident/skilled enough at this to spend that much money on a Friul set…
I got time before starting this one, but would anyone know about any aftermarket plastic tracks for a Panther that would fit Dragon’s kit?
Or just take a deep breath and go the Friul distance for a grand total of 33€? What about Modelkasten (they seem to cost basically as much as the kit itself)?
Or can those DS be wrestled into place with a little CA and weight?
I just found this video where the builder seemed to manage to reproduce an acceptable sag effect with the stock tracks (around 7:30)
Fruils really are not that difficlt to work with, in fact i would say easier than plastic individual link tracks. Each link is complete, you don’t have to attach guide horns or anything else. Its just a matter of putting each link together with a piece of wire.
I have not tried Modelkasten tracks yet, but have a set of 251 tracks on order. They do look nice and are a bit cheaper than Fruils, problem is gettinghold of them. Only seller i have found is in Australia.But with postage, still cheaper than Fruils.
Edit: Just looked on e-bay and it seems the price of Fruils has come down since a last bought a set. There are other companies now makeing metal tracks as well as those makingplastic ones, so i guess the competition has hit them. You can get Fruils on there for under £30 for Panther kits.
Always first to answer the call, Bish! 
Yes, I checked Friul’s website, the set + postage is about 40€, way less than I expected…
The youtube tutorial i watched makes it look so easy…! I may take the plunge and see what will come down… Never had any fitting problems with the sprockets and idlers?
Thats because i have bugger all better to do. I am at work after all [:D]
Fruils are almost relaxing once you get rolling,especially the bigger links like Tigers or Panthers.The choice you have to make is how to finish them.they can be burnished with burnishing fluid,which can be tricky,or painted and weathered with regular materials which I have done.
Some sets provide sprockets,but I have not had problems.
Modelkasten can look nice,but they are somewhat fragile and more fiddly.
I’ve tried MK tracks on my last armor build and from now on I’ll just put out the few extra dollars more for friuls. Still the MK tracks are way better than the DS tracks. Just my opinion
I think I’ll bite and take the plunge on a friul set… Gonna check some more tutorials before pulling the trigger but it looks manageable… The drilling and cyano drop kinda frighten me a little but we’ll see…
I found this interesting comparative on PMMS ; WWII Productions set got the preference but unfortunately the brand is out of business and it seems like there is none on eBay…
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/misc/panther_track/panther_track.htm
Drilling holes in the Fruils is hit and miss. Some sets i have not had to do any, some just the odd link. Once i have completed the whole track, i just stand it on itsside and add a dop of glue to the end of each pin with a small piece of wire.
For anyone interested, here’s a method that looks pretty quick & easy :
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sticking the tracks vertically in a vice (the guy used a photoetch bendig device to stick the tracks in place)
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hammer copper pins in, no cleaning required
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trim off the pins
Hi,
I don’t know if they are the same as DS tracks, but I haven’t had any troubles with the bendable/gluable tracks that come in Emhar kits. As long as I glue them in place a small length at a time and let them dry for a couple minutes before tryin to bend and glue the next length of the track, they have worked fine for me.
PF