I would appreciate comments from experienced modellers on how to glue canopies. I am working on the Revell 1:48 strike eagle. This model has a separate frame and canopy assembly.
Is it best to use normal modeling glue, or is there something else better?
Masking has always been a pain. Any comments on that also appreciated. I think I’ve been doing it the difficult way.
Thanks in advance…
For clear parts, I use Microscale Krystal Klear or Testors Clear Part Cement. Both are water soluble white glue type products.
Regards, Rick
Yes I always use Krystal Clear. You can see below, all of the se kits were done with white,water soluable glue. Some modelers use a coat of future over the cnaopies to protect the clarity. I do not like future, personally, I think it is too glossy and gives a most unrealistic appearance. I polish clear parts with Plastic Polish before installation to take care of any minor scratches etc.
Not a real experienced modeller but I have learned from experience
… to make sure the canopy fits properly. This may take a little trimming and fitting for some kits. But if the surface being glued is not flush the whole length it won’t stay stuck for long. Then mask the clear canopy to avoid getting glue and paint on it. Remove the mask when the plane is finally finished and ready for display. I use the testors white glue for clear plastic parts , Bill.
Elmers white works good too, and, it´s a good gap filler.But, loooong cure time! Also, since I´ve been out of the loop for a while now, whats the latest greatest up to datest method for canopy masking?
mcded -
I’ll second the Elmer’s glue thing, also the “fit” thing. Pre-fitting the parts ensures not only a good bond, but a neat seam as well. The curing time isn’t bad, usually a few hours, and you know when it’s dry, because it ries clear. If you goof, a little water or alcohol cleans it up nicely.
As for masking, I’ve have very good luck with the Tamyia masking tape. But, if you’re dealing with edge canopy bows, just spill some paint in a lid or similar device, to the depth you need the bow, and dip the edge of the canopy in to the paint. No masking, no muss, no fuss.
As for future, it a good idea to dip the capopy first, ley dry, usually days, and than proceed as above. Honestly sometimes I do, and sometimes I don’t. It’s very useful however, it you have to buff out an imperfection, then it’s a life saver!
Archer out.