Wow…I like what you have done with this kit…I have built several Tamiya “T’s” and have always thought they were under-rated…I particularly like this one with the unusual turret casting…great casting texture and scratch work…looking good…
!http://www.mfbb.net/reaper/images/smiles/tlab06.gifOK, I can take a hint.
!http://www.cheesebuerger.de/images/midi/frech/d005.gifHere’s that picture again for convenience…!http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b232/gluetank/PICT0179.jpg
My barrel aluminum came in a bag labeled K&S metals available at the Hobby Lobby.
PART 1 outer barrel
- Tubing dimension: Use the kit part to measure the length and diameter at the base and tip. A cheap set of vernier caliphers !http://tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:owQzn3Sq2eI80M:http://www.engineersedge.com/catalog/images/V721.jpgare very helpful.
2.It’s important to add a inch or so to the overall length to give you a base to put in the drill to avoid any unsightly markings on the barrel.
3.You should use a inverted .125 drill bit or brass rod for internal reinforcement. This provides for a way to neatly cut the barrel off to size at the base when finished with a razor saw and prevents crushing the barrel with the drill chuck; not to mention bending the barrel when you are filing the taper.
4.The taper. That would be measured from the edge of the mantlet to the barrel tip. The base end should already or very nearly be correct. Lay the hand drill on a flat surface (I laid mine on it’s side). Using the kit measurements; carefully file the tip to near the kit dimensions. Now, use a broad metal file and apply pressure more to the business end and less to the base (mantlet end) while occasionally using a straight edge (steel rule) from tip to base to check the progress. Be patient. When you acheive a straight edge between the the two points; you have your taper. Use a fine file for the last finishing passes and polish it up with fine steel wool or the like.
PART 2 inner barrel
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Example: A 75mm gun would have an inside Dia. of 2.9527559". In 1/35 that would be .0843644 of an inch. What the heck, let’s go with a final of .086 since there’s an index drill size of 44. That would be close enough for a 76mm too.
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When finished with Part 1 use a hollow .125 outer dia tube piece of aluminum with a final internal dia of .086 (drill size 44) and insert (press in on a wide flat surface) into the outer barrel from the tip (use superglue if needed on the mantlet end - you’ll have to be quick if you use superglue to keep the liner in place if needed…it really should be a press fit anyhow) A press fit is best. You can accomplish that by lightly ruffing up the outside surface of the inner barrel liner with a file before pressing it into place in the outer barrel. If you can find a tube with an already very close internal dia you can chuck it into the drill and it won’t require much pressure to hold it when drilling. The length of the inner liner isn’t all that important as you won’t be seeing all of it. A half inch would be plenty. It only has to be pretty on one end.
By the way, unless you’re ducking rivetcounters, a few thousanths aren’t really going to matter anyhow.
Hope this helps.
!http://www.buddy-icons.info/img/smile/1639.gifHit the panic button and get back to me if anything is vague.
Thanks again for that, but you’ve lost me as to why an inner/outer arrangement barrel on say a 75mm?
A rod that is .084 in dia isn’t going to be much reinforcement when filing down from about .1875 (3/16). Takes some pressure to do that.
Besides, with a one piece scenario, you’ll probably have trouble finding anything large enough in diameter for the barrel; with a hole small enough for the bore.
When you get there, you’ll understand. After I get all my tools together it takes about 30-35 minutes.
The combination of both looks really cool too. It’ll be in my next project.
A rod that is .084 in dia isn’t going to be much reinforcement when filing down from about .1875 (3/16). Takes some pressure to do that.
Besides, with a one piece scenario, you’ll probably have trouble finding anything large enough in diameter for the barrel; with a hole small enough for the bore.
When you get there, you’ll understand. After I get all my tools together it takes about 30-35 minutes.
The combination of both looks really cool too. It’ll be in my next project.
Got you I get all now, I’ve just done myself a series of diagrams from your explanation, as to why you’d need that inner barrel insert [8-]. I had to convert your imperial measures, we Brits have a strange relationship with metric, I grew up using metric or imperial for different things.
If only my dad were still here, he was a centre lathe turner, could have knocked out barrels from solid bars of ally, stainless or whatever by the bucketload.
Eoin here’s a pic of the tubing I used to make my barrel.

Its 3/16 across with a 1/16 bore diameter. I can’t remember the manufacture I’ll check the next time I’m at my LHS.
Heres a quick update of my progress
I’ve managed to get some of the new hubs done after some trial and error.Heres a pic of one of the kit hubs and one I made.

I’ve got tommorow off thanks to mother nature so it looks like I get to spend the day at the bench[:D].
Eoin here’s a pic of the tubing I used to make my barrel.
Its 3/16 across with a 1/16 bore diameter. I can’t remember the manufacture I’ll check the next time I’m at my LHS.
Panzerguy, that’s the sort of tubing I was after, a fair bit of metal to enable the easier method of simply filing a taper. If you could check for us next time, be much appreciated.
Thanks
Hello Panerguy,
Nice to see all the TLC going into the old Tamiya T34 kit. Very nice work. The tracks really look alot better than the kit supplied ones. The rubber band tracks do look a bit over stretched. Nice job on the screens, texturing, fenders, barrel, and oh yeah, The damaged headlight is crucial! Looking forward to updates.
Best Regards,
Mo
Eoin Sorry havent had a chance to get to the lhs yet but I will soon.
Mobious thanks and the headlight has been taken care of[^]
Okay now that Christmas is over and things are getting back to normal around here I managed to get some time at the bench.
I finished up the new hubs. These were made using the poly caps from the kit that I modified by cutting off the ends and replacing them with discs that were made using my trusty motor tool. The new discs are a little smaller in diameter but thicker then the old ones. The domes on the end were trimmed off the old disc and super glue to the new ones. Bolt heads are stretched sprue.



Other details that have been added are some wiring inside the headlight, handles on the front storage bin some texturing on the exhaust to represent rust using putty and straps on the spare track links. The straps are made from brass foil and the buckles are copper wire that was carefully bent to shape using tweezers. The hull MG barrel was cut off and replaced with one made from sprue.




The hull MG barrel was cut off and replaced with one made from sprue.

The unditching beam is a stick from the back yard that was sealed and painted. The rolled up tarps were made using modeling clay.

And here’s everything broken down and ready for a coat of primer.

Thanks for looking and hopefully by tomorrow it will have its first coat of dark green
Panzerguy, that looks really cool. Wish i had those skills.
It’ll look really good painted up.[tup]
The detail work is really paying off…all the little areas are getting their proper attention and its almost a shame to see it painted! [tup]
[#ditto]
Great build panzerguy, it’ll be a real pleasure following this one.
Hey panzerguy, great build ya got going on. Lots of detail and ideas. Be looking forward to paint on the T-34 and crew.
Best Regards,
Mobious
Hi Steve,
Looks like ‘ya got a good lookin’ build goin’ on here. I just hafta love that log 'ya got loaded up on that rig. Buckles and straps look fine. The details on the headlight really helped out didn’t they?
Now, do it justice with a knock out paintjob!
Paul thanks for looking in. And no need to wish. I’m sure will be seeing wips like this from you in the future.
Thanks Bill. Yeah its always seems a shame to cover it up. But I have been toying with an idea for a display piece using lots of am and pe parts.
Will, Mobious, thanks guys, much appreciated.
And hi to you also Steve. That’s what I love about the FSM forums no matter how long you’ve been building a little tip or suggestion from one of you guys here can make all the difference.
Quick update. Got the primer coat on and found a few spots that need to be touched up nothing major so I should be all set to lay down some green tonight.
Steve, please tell me you will be bringing this to Danbury mext year. This is starting to look like something that will have to be seen up close and personal
Steve - I enjoy scratch building…and I enjoy watching it done well. This thread has become an enjoyment to read.
Very nice details and very well done.
Rounds Complete!!
Very very nice. You have skills my man.