WIP BD-5 ready for paint.

Some years ago there was a fuji model or some make like that. It was a small model to be sure. It had the Pepsi another kit had the Coors markings. I decided to resurrect that model in wood. Recently I read guys shelving models for one reason or another. I shelve them too. Over the holidays I found some time to revisit this one and will let you see how the paint graphic is applied. Stay tuned… Of course there are sizing disputes in all scales the silver bullet is 1/35th and the recent project 1/72nd I would go smaller ,but the smallest is as comfortable on the joints as I want to carve. There is a fellow in Novescotia who makes palm size craziness…LOL

interesting…

(http://s1028.photobucket.com/user/ArtworksIII/media/20141204_094240_zps10af9209.jpg.html)]Firstly you have to make up some fine line tape. 3M doesn’t seem to have the sizes for my need so using this old modelers trick is best. I use painters tape but burnishing the edges is always necessary if you wish to avoid bleed through. The cardstock template side view and wing to view become lay ups so I can transpose the graphic to the model in the exact place on each side of the model.

A ribbon of fineline tape begins this process.

I’ll mask in the the canopy and paint scheme only to come back and remask the color stripes takes afew hours to do this process.Stay tuned…

Did you do any priming or other preparation of the wood surface before painting the canopy area?

Hello Don. I use a tack rag to dust off the model. The canopy is a very dark grey acrylic water base taped off then applied with airbrush. I’ll use flat white to paint the over all.

So you do not fill the grain of the wood?

Don not after a good 80 grit finish sanding :-). Acrylics have a filling property I suppose. The top coat on this is (miracle whip) AKA snow white Krylon. Once I get the graphic trans posed onto the model I can mount it on my lazy Suzan to rotate as I paint.very even finish. Back masking the graphic insures nice tidy lines.The templates can be used on six other models befor replacement.

Of course the bottom of the model gets it’s treatment. It might be of interest that my work is made from junk wood as seen by the grain on the right.

That is some very nice “junk” wood. What is it exactly?

Raualduke Yellow pine/White pine. Most of the wood this year came from construction piles.

Thanks. Would have never guessed pine

While I usually use basswood for smaller scratch projects, I have used pine for larger subjects like ship models. Much cheaper than basswood and still works easily. Only problem is it takes more filler to hide grain. Basswood is so easy to carve and the grain is so tiny it is easy to fill, but the stuff is not that cheap.

80 grit is fine for smoothing out the grain with no need for filler. The majority of my clients who own my work like to see the grain. This model is a master for some up coming Dapron vacuum molding.

That was a really unique and fun aircraft to watch. I was really surprised at how small that thing was.

We were at an airshow at Cleveland’s Burke Lakefront Airport when it arrived in a C-47. They brought it out through the cargo door and attached the wings, then asked us for permission to park it by us for protection.

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I think you show an extreme ability to used found wood like I do plastics and other stuff . I like what you do . T.B.

Great vintage photos looks like flagship #1 thanks for your intrest.

T.B. Thanks for your kind words just a hobby that pays for itself…