In the past 15 minutes I’ve managed to get the cockpit side up after running the rigging for all the controls. For a change I used Ez-Line, its a little thinker and is a nice black so should stand out against the back ground. I’ll get some pictures together this week end when i should be able to get the seat and instrument panel installed
Phil
Picture updates
Nice work, Phil. Having rigged my cockpit recently, I’m happy to be through that particular gauntlet. Is that lozenge I see up under the pedals?
Phil: Just fantastic Phil, you guys are going to convince me to run out and pick up one of the Wingnut models myself…
Great work! I’m watching this thread with interest as I just ordered a SE.5a ‘Hisso’
from Wingnut Wings.
Ok new update with pictures below.
Had a good think about the cockpit control cables and decided that I needed something to glue them too so added a bit of bracing.
I’ve fixed one side and will be sorting the control cables this weekend. I have noticed one problem with the Wingnut instructions, the cockpit cover isn’t mentioned at all! It just appears (bit of a Dragon flash back there). I was a little worried that it was going to be a problem but the part is there so will add it at some point.
I have done some work on a base for the kit. Used the old fashioned picture frame which I built up with some heavy artist card and a good coat of Tamiya Field Gray
I then added a mat from Reality In Scale which looks very nice. Small problem in that it was about 5mm short on both sides. I’ve filled the gap but I think it still needs some work to blend it in
I should get the cockpit closed up this weekend and start work on the green paint and some other bits to get a good run at it on a long weekend
Phil
Phil
Looks like a marvelous build coming along. For recreation sometimes I look at the gallery at Des Delatorre’s terrific site www.ww1aircraftmodels.com or at Bob’s Buckles. Yours looks like it’s going to be in that category. Must be something about biplanes or ships that brings out the creative juices because even though I like all modelling, a good bipe or ship is something special. Maybe it’s the fishing line. (In case you want to check another very nice Pup build, Doogatx here did a WNW Pup for the Great War GB on this board and is on his site doogsmodels.com/…/sopwith-pup-rnas ).
The ship modelling guru Jim Baumann came up with a terrific idea for fighting rigging sag: works for monofilament, stretched sprue and coated fly tying line. He burns an incense stick and watches the smoke go up: it’s warm enough maybe an inch and a half away - just keep it moving. Only way I know to be able to see where the heat is going and quit as soon as you see things tightening up. It works really well on planes and 1/700 ships because you can handle the model as well as the incense and come up from any angle. (I screwed up some rigging once doing that because of a California earthquake tremor - caused me to touch the line with the lit incense: burning incense will cut 1lb tippet. Minus such things it works great.
If you use metal tubing, how long do you make it for 1/32 scale? I’m going to make a run to Bob’s Buckles to replace some that I misplaced and am not really sure about the length. Advice?
Be watching. I’ve got a Pflaz III at home and am waiting inspiration.
Eric
The Pup is progressing nicely, Phil.
I’ve started giving some thought to my D.VII’s base. Gotta get out to Michael’s or Hobby Lobby and look for some materials.
Phil - beautiful work so far, sir!
Tim - as an option for bases, you could check this place out: http://www.modellers-warehouse.com.au/Wild%20places/Foliage%20mats%201%20page/scalemodelinggra.html
I don’t want to tip my hand, but I’m not going with a realistic base. I’m shooting going for one that commemorates the GB.
too fiddly for my old hands, but im really enjoying watching you build this. i noticed there were 2 props in the kit? what is the criteria for which prop you use?
Madhatter
There is nothing in the instructions about which prop for which aircraft, looks like you can just pick either which is a bit strange. I’m replacing the prop anyway with a wooden one so its not a huge problem for me.
I must be honest now too and say the cockpit encloser is in the instructions, its hidden in plain sight.
Phil
So this weeks update. Body is now closed up. I was a little worried about the ridge which runs along the edge close to the cockpit but after a bit of checking it looks right. I’ve done some test fitting of the lower wing and it still needs some finessing as I’m not 100% happy with the fit so far.
Only main thing to note is the disappearance of all the work done so far, anyway pictures below
Nice work, P mitch. Don’t worry about the interior being visible, just buy a good borescope! A necessity to enjoy all the detail in the WNW kits.
OK sat at work today and had a brain wave. I’m changing the base I’m going to use. I can still use the one see before but had an idea which is too good to pass up. I’m going to try and step up the speed now as it looks I’m lagging a bit here!
Phil
Phil,
You aren’t lagging at all, and the Pup is coming along swimmingly.
Question: Are you doing some pre-shading up front?
Tim
I’m doing a mixture of pre and post. I got the lower wings on last night and will be getting the upper colours on this weekend I hope. I need to have a good look at the cowlings etc upfront and see what I want to do there. I know some of them had hand beaten details and I may have an idea on how to do that but again want to show it as a surprise (plus if it doesn’t work I dont look like a twit)
Phil
So a bit of a longer update from me now.
Time to take the paint to the wings. I started as expected with the Tamiya Deck Tan (XF-55) which the first coat went down fine. Then some masking at the spar lines and a few lines of red brown mixed with the Deck Tan. Everything went fine there too.
So a few days pass and I need to give the wings a heavily thinned top coat of Deck Tan, 1 - 9 paint to thinner. This is where I had a problem. In the past I’ve had an issue with splotches when I airbrush and it happened again. This time i was almost expecting it and used Tamiya retarder (which is a nightmare to get in the UK). I was lucky and as that extended the drying time the splotches smoothed out.
I’m still not 100% sure about the look but its growing on me. Any way as usual any ideas or suggestions happily received. I’m away for a few days next week but after that should get some time at the bench
Phil
So its been a while and its time to update you all.
Almost at the point for decals now as the green paint is on and the aluminium for the engine cowlings is all sorted. I used Alclad on it and it worked great but you have to watch the fumes, lucky I have a booth and a good mask.
I know the green isn’t perfect but looking at a lot of old photo’s I dont think it would have been orginally either, added to that I hope the clear coats for the decals and some shading I want to do will help a lot
There are ports on the wings I’d guess for inspection and adjustment for the control cables which are very easy to get right as its a simple masking job to leave them the expected drop colour. The edge needs to be lined with wood paint which is a bit fine but still a good brush works wonders
The spars are all ready to go as well. as I’d removed them from the sprue and wanted to make sure I knew which was which I used some masking tape on the clips just to save problems later. its a nice trick I’ll be using more in the future I’m sure
Next came the machine gun. Simple job one coat of Alclad aluminium and they a wash of Tamiya ready made wash and I really like it. Easy work for a good luck
All thats left is the tail which I have “pre-made” to make painting easy.
Finally a shout of the cowl to show how easy Alclad goes on and how good it can look done by a complete novice
Quick note on what I’ve learnt so far, don’t put the rigging buckles in before you paint - its a nightmare to get them masked without crushing some, don’t be scared of these kits they are great to build and not as hard as you may think
I promise as its the home straight speed will increase now.
Phil
Wow! Exceptional update, Phil, glad to see things are coming along beautifully.
What paint did you use for the green upper surfaces? It captures the weathery green/brown shade of PC.10 just perfectly, looks very realistic.
Cracking job all the way around!