I’ve decided 2016 will be the year I try to do some WIP postings here – my New Year’s resolution if you will. I’ve done a bit of this in a handful of Group Builds on this site, but not “out in public” as it were. I’m looking forward to hints and tips, and all constructive criticism y’all can give me.
My first subject will be a 1/32 Wingnut Wings Albatros D.V that I’ve been asked to build for someone. He’s requested I do the Albie flown by Ltn. Erwin Bohme when he commanded Jasta 2 – Jasta Boelcke. A successful ace and effective commander, Bohme is unfortunately best remembered as the pilot that collided in mid-air with the father of fighter tactics, Oswald Boelcke, during a dogfight. Bohme survived - his friend and commander Boelcke did not. The markings for Bohme’s Albatros are included in a gorgeous sheet of options from Pheon Decals.
Pheon provides all the individual markings needed for any of nine options, relying on the standard markings from the Wingnut Wings kit decals sheet.
In addition, many of the Pheon options require lozenge. I’ll be using 5-color upper and lower lozenge decals from Aviattic, which many regard as the best lozenge decals out there. I’ll need rib tapes, too – these are from Wingnut Wings.
Normally, I “do my own” wood grain, but I’ve been asked to use wood grain decals from Uschi van der Rosten. Let’s see…by my count, I’ll be using parts of at least 11 decal sheets. Sheeeesh.
Generally, Wingnut Wings kits don’t need aftermarket parts to look good or to fix problems. There are a few items that can add nice detail, however. For this build I’ve put together a selection – detailed, 3D printed turnbuckles and an airspeed indicator from GasPatch Models, a resin intake manifold complete with cloth wrapping from Barracuda Studios, resin spark plugs from Taurus Models, and some cloth seat belts, etched radiator, and other miscellaneous details from HGW. Oh, and they have yet another decal sheet for the floor. Yeah.
I think I’ll start with the engine. Wingnut kits are famous for their detailed engines. Their website has a boatload of extra pictures, along with numerous hints and tips. And if you didn’t know, Wingnut Wings is loosely associated with a company called The Vintage Aviator Limited (TVAL). Look them up on the web – but only if you have some time available. They manufacture flying full-scale WW1 aircraft – and they’re even made Mercedes engines and others from scratch. Astounding stuff. There is an entire section devoted to the Mercedes engine, with numerous very helpful photos. I’ll be referring to these as I detail the engine. Again, the extra detail isn’t necessary, but…I guess I can’t help it.[;)] Here is the engine in its initial state, before paint and extra detail.
That’s all for now folks – I’ll be back sometime soon with updates. If I don’t show up, y’all keep me honest and yell at me. Happy New Year’s everyone!
It’ll be interesting to see this come together Chuck. I’ll be watching to see how those wooden decals do. =]
Hello everyone. I hope you had a joyous and safe New Years. I had time to do a bit of engine work on the Albatros. First up is the exhaust – an easy added detail is to hollow out the end. A few minutes with a couple of drill bits and a Dremel tool did the trick.
For detail work, I usually use Model Master Metalizer paints. I first pre-shaded the end and attachment points of the exhaust with…go figure…Exhaust.
Next, I filled in the remainder with Burnt Metal
Next, I added Tamiya Clear Orange at the junctions
I then coated the entire exhaust in Tamiya Smoke.
Everything looks “wet” right now, but washes and a flat coat, plus adding depth to the end will finish it off nicely. All that will have to wait though. Next, I wanted to add a bit of detail to the Mercedes based on the fabulous pictures from The Vintage Aviator website and some other references I have. These pictures from a Janes compilation show some added oil and other lines, as well as the spark plugs.
I drilled holes into the cylinders and glued the Taurus Models spark plugs in place with a dot of super glue. They’re the little green things sticking out from the sides of the cylinders.
I drilled holes in what I think is the water pump at the top of the engine to accept two lines made from solder on the left hand side, and an additional hole on the right side to accept a copper line. I’ll use a piece of copper wire, since nothing simulates copper like copper. First, I had to straighten the wire. I use two metal rulers and roll the wire between them like a sausage – after a bit, the wire is nice and straight.
I also added the additional oil line down low on the engine block, again using solder. I made sure I drilled the hole for this line as close to the molded mounting bolt as possible to clear the engine mount. Planning ahead always pays off…when I remember! Here’s a trial fit:
Time for some paint. I shot some Tamiya NATO black on the cylinders, not forgetting that the bases of the cylinders are actually molded on top of the engine casing. I created a quick mask using soda straws to cover the majority of the cylinder moldings on the engine, and then added Metalizer Aluminum – I’ll touch up later.
That’s all for tonight folks! Hope you enjoyed – comments, criticisms, and questions welcome as always…
This looks like it will be a great build, especially with all the AM goodies! [:)] Their kits are top notch.
And that’s why I’ll never build one. Can’t afford it.
Gary
Nicely done. =]
That is some really nice detail. This is gonna be good.
BK
I’ve done 2 of these and boy howdy these are nice kits. I too am looking forward to seeing how the wood decals work out. Good call on the gas patch stuff. Great addition. I have to build another DV now so I can use that straw idea for the bottom of the cylinders.
Great work . Here’s a link to the engine I did mainly to show you the spark plugs I used. They look real nice.
This is excellent workmanship. You’re doing a great job!
Toshi
Thanks everyone. I appreciate your comments.
Marc, thanks for reposting your link. I love your work. If I remember right, you’re the one that turned me on to RB Productions spark plugs. I usually use them, but I was given the Taurus plugs so I thought I’d try them. They seem ok. You’ve made me reconsider my plug wire “tube” - I’m going to look into using a brass tube. I can’t rise to your level on the wires, but I have a system that works.
i hope to have another update in a couple of days. Day job and all…
Im definitely following this.
I got me a Sopwith Scout recently, so I’m jumping on this thread to pay close attention to your expertise :0)
Looking good…
[color=#660000]Just for your convienience “. . .Machines built by Albatros received salmon pink or camouflage rib tapes. OAW machines received light blue or camouflage rib tapes. . .”[/color]
Ahhhh…so that’s how you know. Thank you Stephen! So…maybe I should have gotten camo rib tapes and avoided the stress of deciding! Better to know for sure - thanks.
I’m hoping to have another update in a couple of days - I’m working thru a couple of things on the plug wires. I have most of the base painting of the engine done as well.
Good evening everyone. Hope you all had a great weekend. I didn’t have as much bench time as I thought I would – basketball games with our boys and company over precluded that…but that’s okay.
I did manage to finish the rough painting of the engine components. Believe it or not, there are 13 different colors represented here…plus a silver colored pencil. Phew! Maybe I got more done than I thought!
I also refined my tactic for creating the spark plug wires and attaching them to the distributors at the rear of the engine. Looking again at Marc’s wonderful work (posted in a link above) made me decide to try something a bit closer to what he does – though I can’t pull it off like him. Plus…well, I’m lazy. I used .010” lead wire that I flatten with the pinch point on a pair of pliers, creating a simulated plug lead. I then trim it so the lead is not too long. Then…I poke a hole in it with a straight pin. Not terribly detailed, but easy. I like using the lead wire because it is so compliant when I bend it to shape.
There is a tube that runs on each side of the engine enclosing the plug leads, protecting and routing them to the rear for connection to the distributors. I am simulating this with a 0.7 mm x 0.5 mm brass micro tube from Albion Alloys. I had to cheat on the aft end of this tub to represent all 6 plug wires by using .006” brass wire. I did a fit check to make sure all was well.
I want to have somewhere to attach the plug leads off the engine, so I am drilling holes into the brass tube with a #79 (.0145”) drill bit, using the dimples molded into the Wingnut Wings part as a spacing guide. I score the hole position lightly with a blade, use the tip to create a dimple, then carefully drill the hole out with the bit.
Sadly, I bent what turned out to be my last #79 bit. [bnghead] You’d think by now I would know better and have stocked up prior to starting. Oh well…more are on order. Maybe for the next update I’ll have to switch to guns. Sounds kinda like Maverick in Top Gun…
Have a great week everyone!
Chuck you are doing an outstanding job. Great idea on the flattened solder. And I owe you an apology for not warning you about when you drill those tubes.[whstl]
This is such a convincing build, I have to ask: does it work? 
Happily following along. =] This is all the same kind of scratch work that I enjoy being challenged with myself. You’re doing an excellent job.
Looking forward to the rest.
Hah! When people (non-model people that is) ask me “that’s cute…does it fly?” I always reply “Yes it can. Once.”
Thanks for the comments guys. My drill bits haven’t arrived yet, so I’m working on the guns. Man, dose are some itty bitty PE parts [8-|]