I use Tamiya acrylics most of the time. Is Windex recommended for cleaning the airbrush after this type of paint? I know it’s OK for Future floor polish (acrylic).
i shoot it through mine all the time. i use tamiya as well and it works great as a cleaner as long as there is no dried paint anywhere. later.
I agree with Chris. The only down side is that I have heard that over time it can cause the steel of your airbrush to darken. I always end up the day by spraying plain water through it after the solvent to clean that out as well.
I use a mixture that MikeV turned me onto; 2 parts distilled water, 1 part Simple Green, 1 part Windex. That even tends to get dried paint off pretty well
Same here - I keep a large bottle of it in my paint room and a can of Lacquer thinner for cleaning up after enamels.
Scott,
I have noticed that the cleaning mixture you mentioned does not do real well for Model Master Acryl, especially the white.
I sprayed some straight out of the bottle today with my Badger 360 and that cleaning solution hardly touched the dried paint on the walls of the airbrush cup.
I had to use Mr. Lacquer to show that paint who was boss. [;)]
I guess Testors has some mean ingredient in that paint that makes it adhere very well.
Mike
What is “Simple Green” and is it available in Canada?
(I haven’t even figured out how to get the tip out of my Omni 6000 anyway…[:p])
Thanks,
Rich [8D]
Simple Green is an all-purpose cleaner that is available in lots of places in the US. Here is a list of their retailers:
http://www.simplegreen.com/wheretobuy/
I woudl assume it’s available in Canada, but don’t know that for a fact.
If the 6000 is like the 3000 it just screws off. Here is the complete parts list:
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/omni%20parts.htm Tha Air Cap and Air Cap Gaurd just unscrew from the Air Cap Body, although they may be a little tight. The tip itself then just lifts out of the body.
If there are any differences between the 3k and 6k MikeV will let us know!
Mike, I haven’t had that problem, your mixture blows it right out of mine. I use MM white (occasionally) and interior green (quite a bit) thinned with alky and your “Soup” does a great job of knocking them right out of my airbrush.
Scott,
Maybe I am having more trouble removing the paint because I shot it straight out of the bottle with no thinning? I would imagine that the alcohol thinner helps break it down and keeps it from sticking as much. [%-)]
Mike
The Omni 6000 has a needle bearing and the Omni 3000 does not, that is the only difference other than feed types. [;)]
Mike
RichardI
You can get Simple Green at Canadian Tire. The stock it in the automotive department beside the car care products.
Could well be, Mike. I’ve never sprayed it straight from the bottle, so I don’t know how it would behave. I probably thin paint too much, but it spraays well at low pressure so I keep doing it like that.
After using Tamiya or Gunze, I have had good luck shooting 91 proof alcohol through my airbrush followed by water. Model Master Acrylics are a little different so I use a mixture of Windex, alcohol and water. As others have stated, this acrylic can be tough. You can always resort to lacquer thinner.
I have used Windex as a cleaner after Tamiya acrylics. However, for MM acryl, I tend to shoot a cup of Tamiya thinner to clean it out. It’s worked so far, hopefully it’ll continue to do so.
It’s interesteting you mention that because that’s how I shoot it as well, straight from the bottle, which is probably why I like it so much, I don’t need to worry about mixing anything else. When I am finished with mine, I run Tamiya thinner through it and that seems to take care of it quite well, although I don’t have a gravity feed, I have the Iwata HP-BCS so results may vary.