Will waxing a canopy or clear part prevent CA hazing?

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Techniques
1

Does anyone know if waxing a canopy or windshield with Tamiya wax before gluing will prevent CA hazing?

I really don’t like using Future for this and I’m looking for an alternative.

Thanks

2

Not that I’m aware of. I can recommend Aleenes Tacky Glue, it’s waterbased, grips and holds well, though it isn’t CA.

3

Dipping in future can help prevent it but it’s not a guarantee.

4

wilbur , I just use tamiya extra thin , put on thinly , never had any trouble , it’s not worth the heart ache mate .

steve

5

Waxing the inside and outside of the canopy, ‘might’ work but how do you get the wax from the inside of the canopy off?

Dipping the canopy in Future, or other high gloss varnish, is intended to protect/improve the canopy, but like you, I’ve had mixed results.

It would help prevent the fumes from the CA etching the clear plastic, but this is not guaranteed.

Other options would be to use a different glue specifically for canopies?

Deluxe Materiels: AD12 CANOPY GLUE or DELUXE AD57 ROKET CARD GLUE,

Alene’s “Clear Gel Tacky Glue”, Gator Glue, Micro Crystal Clear, Humbrol ClearFix, ZAP, Formula 500, some low-odour CA’s…

The list is endless… perhaps suggesting there is no single product that works on everything.

I have had most success with Deluxe Materiels or Gator Glue though, & at least these are harmless to the canopy if you need to errr re-do.

6

Waxing or other coatings does not prevent hazing, but the hazing is left on that layer. Coatings like wax can then be washed off, taking the hazing off- if you can get to the area. If there is no access to the waxed area, not much help. If there is, it can work.

Because of the problems of hazing clear parts with CA glue, I have gone to that UV laser hardening glue. I find it works great. No hazing, yet it has strength that white glue does not. Adhesive powers are similar to CA. You do need to have light access to the glue seam from where you would hold the UV tool.

7

Wilbur ;

I have a steadfast rule . NEVER , Never ever , use C.A on canopies or windows . Learned this on Model Rail passenger cars . I use Aleen 's Bronze Bottle , specifically because I also use it on (card or paper , the name is your choice ) models of aircraft , ships and buildings . T.B.

8

I’ve never had a problem with CA hazing on a Future dipped canopies. The only problem is it sometimes takes 3 rounds of cleaning off then re-doing before the Future is absolutely dustless.

I sand both the model area and the canopy for the best fit, dry fit a few times, then lay a very thin line of CA with a sewing needle then place the canopy. This is very strong.

I’m finishing the Tamiya Laferrari and the glass has to be perfect so no CA there. But the fit is perfectly engineered so I think Elmers will work here.

However next up is Tamiya’s 1/32 F-15E Bunker Buster and the canopy is large. I need the strength. So I want to make the right decision. Dipping this large piece and not getting a spec of dust will not be easy.

How strong is micro crystal clear compared to CA?

Also thanks for these responses.