Who out there has had disappointing results with attaching windows during construction? If they can be attached after painting, I personally don’t have any problem. But before the fuselage halves go together; windows, for me, are a nightmare! Cement is messy, CA can fog and Elmer, quite frankly, just doesn’t have enough lead in his pencil. What is the CLEAR solution to attaching clear parts that actually stay in place?
I take it you’re talking about windows on the sides as opposed to canopies.
I use either CA or the liquid brush-on cement on the fuselage only, then carefully put the clear piece in place. To make sure I don’t have too much CA, I use a toothpick to apply a tiny amount.
I use good ole Testors Clear Parts Cement.
Hey Lfirth,
I myself use white glue(on the order of Elmers glue) when attaching windows and canopies. Knock on wood, so far I have not experienced any difficulties w/ white glue.
I feel that there should be a better adhesive that wont ruin the clear parts when attching them though[}:)][;)].
Flaps up, Mike
One technique that has actually served me well is using either gloss paint as a glue if the parts are small, or “Mod Podge” for larger areas. It even dries clear… CA has a tendancy to craze some clear plastics, so I’ve learned to stay away from them.
demono69
I almost always use PVA (poly vinyl acetate) wood glue for canopies as it dries clear, thins with water, and it’s easy to remove excess glue from the model. Just use a dampened Q-tip.
For canopies that fit really well, I use Future as an adhesive. It also dries clear and is easy to apply.
I also use liquid glue like Humbrol Luquid Poly. If you’re careful with the stuff, you shouldn’t have any problems with it. Just don’t let it go where you don’t want it, or it’ll kill your clear parts.Cheers
LeeTree
Don’t know if you can get Humbrol products over the pond, if you can, try their ‘Clearfix’. It’s excellent stuff and can even replace windows if they are small enough, ( You put some on a cocktail stick and spread it around the opening, drawing it towards the center) So that means you can paint and THEN put in glazing. I have tried using clear varnish before with mixed results, but that was before I started using the Humbrol. And as with the other guys, I’ve used Elmers, just don’t get it on the actual glazing, only on the edges, and leave it to set for quite some time.
I found some cement used to install watch crystals from my hobby shop. It is called G-S Hypo-Tube Cement. It is made by Germanow-Simon Corporation,
Rochester NY 14605. The stuff is wonderful!! It dries clear as a bell and has taken a lot of abuse with out letting go.
Thanks for all the info, gentlmen. Now maybe I can get working on all those unfinished projects I’ve been neglecting for so long. LFirth.
Ross gel glue is the best thing I’ve ever found to do that job! It’s a light blue-tinted gel glue that dries EXTREMELY transparent and thin. I bought mine in WallMart.