I wrote down the steps for building my first tank. i don’t have an airbrush. I will use hand brush and spray can if available. i’m confused about alternating enamel and acrylic during coatings. i decided to work around an enamel wash from what ive read is best.after that decision i’m stuck.
wash model
2 build model
3 prime model ( enamel or acrylic? does it matter?
4 paint model ( must it be the opposite of what i use in step #3,and /or step 6 or even step #7
There is no need to vary the paint types at all. Some people use a different type when doing the wash to avoid damaging the base coat, but if done carefully, it is not an issue. I use enamels pretty much exclusively. About the only time I use acrylics is for a wash for the above reasons. However, I will use an enamel wash at times as well. Hope that helps and good luck.
Like Gino I used primarily enamels. But I also build primarily aircraft. At least I used to[;)] The weathering processes are HUGELY different. I am in the midst of my 1st armor build and have used acrylics for the 1st time. I may be making the switch over to all acrylics. As my enamels are used up they will be replaced with acrylics.
wash model
A lot of people do. I never have and have not had any problems. I am usually cleaning parts as I go and end up sanding the mating surfaces so no need to wash off any possible mold release. When the build is down it gets wiped down with alcohol then Polly Scale Plastic Prep (last step b4 painting) to further clean and get rid of the static charge that may attract dust during painting.
build model
Yup.
prime model ( enamel or acrylic? does it matter?
Some people do, some don’t. It will show lots of imperfections in seams etc that you may miss just by looking.
paint model ( must it be the opposite of what I use in step #3,and /or step 6 or even step #7
Well this is a hugely discussed subject. Pros and cons of both. But if you’ve decided on enamel or oil based washes, then you need an acrylic base. This is so when you are wiping off washes during weathering you don’t take off the paint too. Washes can also be made form finely ground chalk pastels—not oil— and mixed with a bit of water and a few drop of dish soap. This can be used over anything. If you use enamel paint you can seal it with a coat of Future floor finish, which is just clear acrylic. Then use your oil washes.
apply decals
If you use any decals that will have any clear film, like numbers etc, you will need to put done a gloss coat before the decals goes down. This give the decal a smooth surface so no air will get under it and cause silvering.
apply weathering (decided on enamel)
Yup, now is the time. I like to seal everything with one last clear coat before weathering.
apply matte finish ( acrylic or enamel)
Again… yup. And again, there is a variety of choices. Testor’s dullcoat lacquer and Polly S acrylic flats seem to be the popular choices. I am a lacquer when it comes to the final coat.
At this time you can also do some post shading with chalk pastel powders and a stiff brush for highlights, stains, streaks etc.
I think everyone has their own way of doing this. I’ve never washed a model prior to building it. I don’t worry too much about my paint type, I work in both acrylic and enamel. I only prime a model if it is mixed media and that’s mostly to get an even color with my base coat. I almost always use an enamel primer, but once again, I have used an acrylic primer too. I always put a clear gloss coat on before I decal and when the decals are dry I clear gloss coat again to protect the decals from my wash. Then I put on my wash, I prefer artist oil paint with mineral spirits for thinning. When the wash is dry I put on a clear dull coat, usually a lacquer. Then I dry brush and finish up with a dust coat, either pastels or a very light over-spray of paint. You’ve kind of got to dive in and sling some paint to find out what works best for you and the tools you have. Good luck with your project.
I wash resin kits, and I found out the hard way Ironside kits and Russian kits like Zvesda need to be washed with soap and water to remove the release film.
I use acrylics exclusively for base and camo coats; oils (enamels, sort-of?) for weathering exclusively.
I wash my kits just to be safe–I tend to snack while I’m building, and finger oils and oils from foods–crackers, cheese, peanut butter, etc–can all muck up your paint adhesion if you’re not careful.
wash plastic kits too. clean surface is essential for a smooth coat.
I don’t like using oil or enamel for filters. Instead of acting like layers of transparent lenses, I think oil filters would combine and look “floating” on top of the base colors. Don’t know how exactly to describe that…
I also don’t use sealers like future or clearcotes (they have thickness and inevitably will knock the details down a little) so my thinner choices is limited. Turpentine for example would damage unprotected plastic and I can’t use that. Acrylic color again has advantage here since water will do no wrong. Oil thinned with lighter fluid is very good for washes though, runs a little heavy, but that’s what washes are for, and it dries fast.
I was going to make this same, point. I was always kind of hit or miss on washing the sprues before starting, then I built an ICM kit. Not a bad kit but it looked like the sprues had been soaked in motor oil before going into the box. There was actually an oily film left on the plastic bag. Since then I have gotten more strict with myself regarding washing parts since who knows who actually made some of the kits out there the way they get swapped around between kit makers.
I’ve also found this step is a little more critical with acrylic paints on unprimed plastic.
After many years I have switched to acrylic based washes on my AFV’as and am amazed at how much more variety of effects you can achieve vs enamels…I still use oil washes to a certain extent on AFV’s and also on figs…