Just on that note, there seems to be a little misinformation going around quite a few forums. In the modelling world we have come to (or been lead to) believe that all enamels are oil-based and all acrylics are water/alcohol based and that has become the de-facto distinction between the two types.
But to be specific, an acrylic by definition, regardless of the thinner/reducer used, cures by the polymerisation of an acrylic resin in the binder of the paint. The carrier/reducer is not relevant.
I often use methylated spirits (our local equivalent of denatured alcohol) with Tamiya acrylics and whilst it works well with the flats, it less than ideal for the gloss paints as it seems to knock down the gloss finish. I also thin more, anywhere from 50-80% thinner. In my experience, Ethyl/denatured alcohol seems “wetter” than Isopropyl and will cover when Isopropyl will bead up.
You know that tamiya thinner is pretty much the same as alcohol 91% maybe you have a bad batch or something because I have used both alcohol and tamiya thinner and the result is literally identical.
Very interesting, Phil–thanks for that information! I just “got educated”! LOL!
Satori–yo’re painting “a” 1/700 scale ship, or you’re painting seven hundred ships!!! [:O]…[;)] The way you’ve worded thatpost, it sounds like you’ve got a gargantuan fleet going there! [:D] I hope that whatever you choose to use works well for you! Post some photos of your results!
Not to shamelessly promote any one store, but I buy this stuff by the can all the time at Home Depot. Just go to the paint dept and look for the can in the photo above. Pay close attention as all the thinners are packaged this way. Make sure that you get the kind you want. More than once I was in a hurry and ran out with laquer thinner when I wanted denautred alcohol.
Denatured alcohol still “beads”, but only half the width of fuzzy area compared to isopropyl alcohol.
I then added some windex, 2 pippet drops into about 100ml of paint mixture and no more beads. This is at 10 PSI using 0.23mm nozzle. I then added some more windex and flow became difficult to control, so a correct mixture is necessary.
It also bubbled a little after stiring, but bubbles disappeared after a minute or two.
I then tried using the same percentage on some tamiya paints with larger pigments, buff, desert sand and some others The mixture broke them all down very well.
Lastly I tried that on flat white with a heavy dose of flat base, still worked perfectly.
Don’t know yet if the paint is stable after curing, but that shouldn’t be an issue. A coat of clear would seal everything in.
Really nice work there, Satori–weird thing; it almost looks like a familiar style that we’ve seen before…? You know we used to have a guy on here named…naw; couldn’t be…you’re much too polite! [;)] He wouldn’t do any WIPs-something about “I’m not on that forum to help improve anyone else’s skills…”
You should really consider doing an Armor WIP build one of these days–looks like you’ve got some great finishing skills…
OK…as a chemical engineer I have watched this long enough…[banghead]
You can use any number of solvents with acrylic paint, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or laquor thinner (Tamiya sells it or buy it in Michael’s or paint store)
The main purpose of the solvent is to lower the viscosity of the mixture…thin the paint…but after application evaporate to allow the paint to dry. The evaporation rate of all of these solvents vary and thus the dry time will vary. Ethanol has a lower vapor pressure than Isopropyl and thus will dry faster. But…ethanol is dangerous. The NFPA, (National Fire Protection Agency) rates ethanol in the same class with gasoline. You can, if not really ventalated well, build an exposion hazard. Further, any electrical equipment in the area would need to be explosion proof which I am sure your vent fan is not!!. BE VERY CAREFUL PLAYING WITH ETHANOL IN CLOSED AREAS. Also it should be noted that the other chemicals in denatured alcohol are not water but usaully other solvents such as Isopropyl Alcohol, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Acetone, and others.
Ethanol is regulated by the ATF and only a limited number of blends to denature ethanol.
The laquor thinner works better with Tamiya since the Tamiya paint has a laquor base (funny smell of Tamiya). This thinner is more efficient than just IPA. Since any of these will thin your paint to a same viscosity, it is a matter of how much you have to use to attain that viscosity.
You say the ethanol is a problem with gloss…to be expected. Its high evaporation rate pits the surface much faster and does not allow the paint to recover as it dries so fast.
In general…be careful with your hobby that you don’t blow yourself up, or damage your health. If surface tension is a percieved problem, use a sufactant like dishwashing soap or windex to break the tension (ever notice widows don’t streak with windex…surface tension).
I would and do use laquor thinner for tamiya. IPA with a hint of windex for MM and other acrylics. Lastly, I clean the air brush with straight windex!!They work great…just find an economical source.
Windex worked very well. I’m going to try isopropyl alcohol with that next.
Both acrylic and lacquer thinner from tamiya have long dry time, I’m not too fond of those. They’re also more expansive.
Typically, when airbrushing with Tamiya acrylics (using X-20A acrylic thinner) it’s usually “surface dry” within a minute, if not a few seconds.
It’s not really a significant issue when airbrushing, but a longer drying time can be advantageous when brush painting as it allows more time for the paint to level, reducing brush marks.
I could stand to see it on a proper base (I really “have a thing about” plain, varnished bases![:-^]) but it’s a stunning example of a weathered old bike!
Like I said, you should do a WIP thread. Join the guys here who make this forum such a great place for learning and instruction! [:D]
Mike, being that I use Tamiya paints 98% of the time, I have much experience with them,
Don’t misunterpret my remark—I fully understand you frugality, but I have tried that route as well; the quest for a cheaper thinner, the “rubbing alcohol” route. And I have found that when painting overall coats, alcohol works fine as a general thinner for wide swaths–but is less effective in “wetting” the paint to flow in tricky, intricate fine-line camo patterns. There is a noticeable difference, for me at least.
If you get the Tamiya thinner in the large bottle–like $7-8.00–it’s really not that expensive at all, and lasts quite a long time. [:)]
The long curing time is a problem. Wetter paint is easier to splash, which in term limits how much the paint could be thinned. There are other issues when air pressure is below a certain level.
I have not expermented enough with other thinners to see how they work for me
By the way this is not rubbing alcohol it is Ethyl alcohol that I used on these two freehand camo paint jobs and I learned about using it from Plasticmod992. Where has he been anyhow? He’s a good builder and a nice guy to boot!
