You might try rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol, or denatured alcohol, which are not as strong as paint thinner. These are less likely to soften paint, and evaporate more quickly if you accidentally get some where you don’t want it.
I think this would totally depend on what kind of paint you’re using – if you’re using acrylics, then “paint thinner” should be totally safe, while alcohol will damage acrylic paints almost immediately. Of course it depends on what they mean by “paint thinner,” too – probably something similar to “mineral spirits”?
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Thanks. I am using Tamiya Acrylics, so when I tried Denatured Alcohol the paint came right off with the adhesive. I will have to get some mineral spirits to try, as the only other remover I have on the shelf is Acetone.
Here is another use of the Micro Liquitape. The instructions for this model are great as long as you don’t remove anything from the sprue to paint it. I really felt like I needed to test fit these parts before committing them permanently, as they are quite fragile and wouldn’t survive a gluing to find out that I transposed the parts. Since I am using superglue as most everything that could be assembled before painting has been done, I won’t worry too much about trying to get the Micro Liquitape off-especially since I didn’t use much of it and it didn’t take much to do what I was trying it for.
Micromark has a bunch of options:
Well, here is the finished product. If I get the gumption later I will put up a separate thread with more pictures and some things I learned from this build. Thanks all for the advice on this.
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If tape peals off the acrylic easily you may want to prime with a flat enamel (pick the best color) and it will never pull off.
I used to used a lot of gunze sanyo and it was giving me fits trying to keep it on the plane UNTIL … I started priming with pactra flat enamels, it never happened again !