Hello all, [:)]
I’ve been using a Paasche H and Paasche VL airbrush for years and while I’m happy with the results. I also have a Badger 150 dual action. I’m looking to try a gravity feed airbrush. Any ideas/input on a reasonably priced model that I can use to get some fine detail??
I mostly build 1/72 and 1/48 Japanese WWII Aircraft.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks, Kevin
Try to get one that is NASA approved. You’ll not regret it.[ip]
There are many good choices. The Iwata Eclipse HP-CS is my first choice. Not sure if you have a Hobby Lobby store nearby. If so, you can get the spare parts really cheap.
If you want to stay with Badger, the Krome will be a good choice.
Badger Krome
I have been using a Badger 150 for years and recently went for the 100. The parts are intachagneble so you can have two airbrushes and don’t have to buy two sets of spare parts. I know keep the 150 with a Medium head for large ares and spraying varnish and the 100 with a Fine for the more detailed work.
If your used to a 150, the 100 will be easy to use.
As was posted earlier, there are many good choices. Have a look at the Grex Genesis XG too!
I’m very happy with this Amazon model. It folds onto itself and become a little suitcase for storage. Never seen a spraybooth that could do that. Only $80, which is as low as it gets.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81haYDqT-IL._SL1500_.jpg
Iwata HP-CR “revolution” or Badger 105 patriot. the whole fine detail thing is a selling point if you ask me. fine lines shouldn’t be a problem without some practice.
I personally use the HP-CR and it doesn’t have any problems doing fine lines. just have to get the hang of it. been using the brush for about two years with zero problems. very easy to keep clean. if you really want a smaller needle in the revolution, you can use the needle,nozzle,and nozzle cap from the HP-BR.
…did the post re: portable spray booth get here by accident?
Master airbrush is cheap and durable, since i got it, my iwatas are in the drawer for preservation.
Cheap? Probably yes. Durable? I have serious doubt.
Most importantly, my Iwata has a smooth acting trigger and precise control. Cannot get that from the Chinese knock-offs.
Badger patriot 105. Bulletproof, easy to clean, hard to clog, paints great, less money than Iwata, American made.
Hi Keilau,
Curious why you believe one can’t get durable, smooth and precise control from a Chinese made AB? I’'ve had a Harbor Freight AB for a number of years and the trigger is smooth and controllable. Don’t use it much because I’ve gone gravity feed but it still works just fine. I don’t have a Master AB but have a friend who does and he’s delighted with it - he’s had it for a number of years! I realize that there are QC issues with the cheapest/noname (i.e. $10.00) ones off eBay but the private branded ones sold by dealers who back them with available parts and a 1 yr warranty (Master, Peak,etc) are, I think, probably a decent buy, particularly if one’s budget is limited. If you look around the web you will find reports of individuals who have had to return VERY expensive airbrushes because of malfuinction. I’d rather have a ‘made in China’ AB than none at all. Just curiosity and some thoughts!
Seriously, how many out there actually have a Master and Iwata AB simultaneously? probably not much because of that chinaphobia, i knew someone would criticize about chinese AB this and that when i praise the master AB, if criticizing it without one, it will not be a fair justification. Cheap and expensive are relative terms, i can afford a $300 H&S no sweat and why i would buy a $30? because its a good product. i found no obvious difference between my master and my HP-C plus (except iwata parts are 10x more expensive), the master AB bought used has been with me for almost 10 years now and still works like a champ. and i am looking to buy another one with a trigger. for the past 10 years both of my HP-C plus and HP-BC plus dont see much light. its so cheap that its almost disposable if it breaks in few years. if all china products are crap, then none of us can cross the bay because our new bay bridge is made in shanghai.
I would go with the Badger Patriot 105 or their 100 series b/c of the interchangeable nozzles which give you 2 or 3 airbrushes in one and save you money. I use an Iwata Neo CS and its my mainstay for airbrushing everything although its more of a detail airbrush. I paid about $35 for it at Hobby Lobby with their 40% off coupon.
I’m probably gonna get another Badger soon, b/c they’re top quality, American made, reliable and easy to get parts for and they’re not overly expensive.
I have 3 made-in-China knock-offs, 2 are PowerCat and one Neo for Iwata.
I also have the Iwata HP-CS, Badger Krome and H&S Evolution Silverline as my reference.
When I start shopping for a better airbrush in 2008, I asked here how come the Master is so much cheaper than the Iwata. One reply from Gerald “Hawkeye” Voigt warned me about the loose trigger and soft needle. Many other readers echoed that. I settled with the Iwata and never look back. It is still my go to airbrush today.
A year or so later, I got the PowerCat out of curiosity. That was supposed to be the most popular brand of made-in-China airbrush then. I dinged one of the needle the first day. The trigger tolerance were poor, the needles were not springy like the Iwata’s. They proved everything that Gerald “Hawkeye” Voigt described. But they were about 1/3 of the cost of an Iwata.
In 2011, I bought the Neo for Iwata at HL for $38. The trigger was reasonably precise and smooth. But the needle and nozzle were the same cheap quality as the PowerCat’s. In fact, they had the same diameter and were interchangeable. It is a good option for modeler if cost is the primary consideration. Neo was known to have quality control issue, but mine worked just fine.
I also like the Krome and the H&S, but I still saw no reason to switch from the Iwata. Because we clean our nozzle and needle regularly, I found the better brands have a definite advantage due to better material and better manufacturing tolerance. They are less prone to wear and accidental damage.
Again, airbrush choice is very personal. But even the name brands are reasonably priced compared to today’s kit price. Serious modeler really have no good reason to go for cheap in any tools, including the airbrush.
BTW, a Peak C-5 costs 4-5 times more than the typical Master airbrush. It is a quality made house brand for BearAir from Japan. It is unfair to both to mention them together.
After the above experience with Iwata and others, I always recommended here that first time buyer to try the airbrush he had in mind at a local store first. Hold it in your hand, pull the trigger to see if it feels comfortable and balanced in your hand. Read up on reviews to find out if the particular airbrush action has a gentle, linear type paint release or a quick, fast type. I like the first kind, but other modeler likes the quick, fast trigger action. Again, the final decision is always personal.
Been eyeballing the Eclipse for a while now to supplement my 2 Badgers. I’m curious about the air hose connection. Is it the same as Badgers?
No, they are different. Iwata uses BSP 1/8" thread on its airbrush, which is sort of like a industry standard most airbrush makers use. Badger use M-5 metric thread on their airbrush which is incompatible with everybody else.
If you already use quick disconnect for the 2 Badgers, you can buy a male QD plug for the Iwata and it should work. Otherwise, make sure to order an adapter when ordering the airbrush to save on shipping.
No quick disconnect here, so I’ll be sure to grab an adapter. Thanks! That’s great info! [Y]
You may want to consider buying a Badger quick disconnect with 2 maie plugs and one QD male plug for the Iwata. It is not that expensive if you get the house brand ones. You will enjoy the convinence when changing airbrush. The Badger quick disconnect will allow you to keep your Badger hose.