Agree with filling and sanding. If models were all build, paint and decal, I would be building them left and right! As it is, I rush the fill/sand process so it still looks bad anyway. [:(]
I DON’T rush it, and it still looks bad… [+o(]
Don’t sell yourself short, dude. That Pz. IV is looking sharp!
[dto:]
Well, anytime it is a Dragon kit—the instructions!!!
[:#]
watch it sucka’…
The “coming down” after moving into fresh air.[N]
[dto:] – For reals!!!
Decals are demons in a convenient package… just add water.[6]
like a mogwai?
Tracks and small PE parts. When you cut the tiny PE part and it needs just a tiny bit of sanding 'cause you didn’t get the piece cut flush.
Owl-
Sanding and decals.
Sanding because i’m no good at rescribing panel lines that i sand away. Hopefully experience will slowly change this.
Decals because i’m too lazy/not smart enough to create a decent jig which will enable me to position the model for easier access whilst decaling.
Haven’t done much with photoech yet, but from what i hear, that may be a nightmare in waiting.
Chris.
…clamp the piece in your p/e bender with the stub hangin’ out ,then file it off…
None, really… I have more of a motivation problem than a part or process problem… Once I get to a stopping-point on a kit, it’s usually not gotten back to for some time because I started on something else and have to get to a stopping-point on THAT… 'Course, the first one ain’t ready yet, so I start on ANOTHER kit, and so on, and so forth… Which is why I have around 30 WIPs, I reckon…
But no… No “Hell parts”… Been building models since 1966 or so, so I don’t have any problems with any kits… 'Cept actually getting it done in a timely manner, or at least before a cat destroys it…
Teeny, tiny parts. Like last night when I was working on Bronco’s 1:48 Predator. There was a part that was about 2mm x 2mm that needed to be attached near the bottom of the landing gear. How am I supposed to pick something this small up with my fat fingers? And don’t even suggest tweezers because I know I would have just launched the part across the room.
Had to think on this. The one consistent thing that crosses my ski tips is the deal where a prop spinner is designed to glue to the face of a back plate. Worse, when the back plate has half of the holes that the prop blades stick out through. Getting that seam to go away is the hardest damn thing to do.
I’m also firmly of the school that all those parts in that box don’t need to get put on the model. Someday I’ll get an extra kit out of it all.
ARMOR MODELS—tools and PE tool holders. Ugh.
Putting th indy track links on in one unbroken piece after weathering them.
Lights on US tanks. PITA.
CAR MODELS—Getting car tires to sit in their wheel wells properly. SO many car models are so poorly engineered in this department that I can’t understand it.
Also, getting the body to sit on the chassis properly and get he right “sit”. I ALWAYS seem to have trouble in this area.
Did I mention painting a good hi-gloss finish?
Most of those seams are supposed to be there, B-man…
!(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/HansvonHammer/Aircraft Profiles/Aircraft details/P40spinner.jpg)
!(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/HansvonHammer/Aircraft Profiles/Aircraft details/Me109GProp.jpg)
!(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/HansvonHammer/Aircraft Profiles/Aircraft details/Me109Eprop.jpg)
!(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/HansvonHammer/Aircraft Profiles/Aircraft details/P51DRedDogXIIprop.jpg)
But some are pretty big, I’ll grant you that… Rescribing them after filling and sanding is a chore, to be sure…
For armor, it is roadwheels…I hated doing them so much I eventually switched full time to aircraft. For aircraft, it is decals, but it does not grind on me like roadwheels had.