What is the best modeling putty to purchase that is easy to work with, sand, etc.? I currently have a tube of Testor’s but have never used it.
I’ve used Testors and Squadron green putty and they both work well.
I prefer to use Squadron White putty diluted with Testor’s liquid cement. I dilute it until it’s the consistance of pudding. It conforms to seams better and doesn’t require as much sanding. Occaisionally I’ll go over the top after it’s dry with a bit of CA but usually this isn’t necessary.
Interesting![%-)]
I use a little paint pallet that i found at Walmart to mix a small lump of white stuff with a couple of drops of liquid cement. The liquid cement makes it adhere well, flow into seams, self level, and not be as porous as typical white putty can be. I mix it with a Micromark Micro brush with the top cut off. YOu get a really small styrene tip that way with a nice handle for control. Much better than a tooth pick. You can get the micro brushes in boxes of 100 and they last a long time. I use the microbrushes with the head still on for applying MicroWeld to the seams.
Although it is sometimes hard to find, and does not work with big gaps, I find Mr. Surfacer 500 does a marvelous job with the kind of seams usually found in quality kits, like Tamiya or Hasegawa.
It is applied with a small paint brush [see Swanny’s site for complete instructions], and sands and feathers beautifully.
My vote goes to Milliput, a two part epoxy product available from most suppliers in three grits. I usually only use the grey (coarse) myself and it works very well, applied by Mk I fingers and smoothed with water on a fingertip. Cuts the final sanding to almost nothing and really hardens wiht little/no shrinkage. The best part is no objectionable solvent odor as there is with Squadron!That keeps SWMBO happy!
Brian [C):-)]
It’s a very long time since I’ve used a solvent-based filler putty. I’ve yet to come across one which doesn’t take ages to dry and attack the surrounding plastic.
For tiny - small gaps I use Tppex. This can be sanded soon after application, or smoothed with cotton buds dipped in isopropanol. For small -medium gaps I use gap-filling CA and accelerator. so long as you sand as soon as the accelerator has evaporated, it’s entirely straightforward, and the resulting filled gap has the same texture as the surrounding plastic.
For large gaps, I first fill the gap, as far as possile, with scrap plastic. I then apply gap-filling Ca and accelerator as above.
For areas where I want to avoid sanding (such as around cockpits and corrugations, or the insides of jet intake trunking)
, if I can’t use Tippex, I use Milliput. This can be smoothed with cotton buds and cocktail sticks dampened with water.
I do have a tube of Green Stuff putty, but I use it exclusively to make mud on military vehicles, thinniing it with laquer thinner, and applying it with a disposable paintbrush.
Cheers,
Chris.
I’ve used Squadron white and Tamiya, and definitely prefer the Tamiya.
Short answer is: The one that works best for you.
My personal preference is automotive glazing putty. It is solvent based, dries very quickly,
is easily sanded, and, has almost no shrinkage. it’s also very low cost when you consider that
you can virtually buy a lifetime supply for about the price of 2-3 tubes of Tamiya or other
modeling putty. I learned about it through necessity while living overseas in a place where the
nearest hobby shop was over a thousand miles away and the “next ship” was a month away.
Ray
Brian and Chris,
I’ve heard that Milliput doesn’t always like to stick to plastics, have either of you experienced this?
m@
I agree. I use glazing putty, autobody red, Squadron Green and CA with baking soda. Glazing putty, auto red, and Squadron Green will thin with lacquer thinner.
[:)]
watchmann,
I have had no problems whatsoever with Milliput staying put; in fact, it adheres quite well, and as Chris mentioned, does not attack the surrounding plastic.
Brian [C):-)]
Thanks Brian! I’ve got a project that Milliput would be great for!
m@
Wow EasyMike! You live just up the street from me! Imagine that. 
m@
I use Tamiya basic type and CA mostly.
Anybody tried the Tamiya light curing?
I use Squadron Green and White, depending of the finish planned. I have also used Revell, which I definitely wouldn’t recommend, as it strings like nothing on Earth and separates out very quickly before going off in the tube.
I haven’t used Milliput for almost 20 years, but there’s no particular reason for that, other than the hassle of mixing it. I also use superglue for small gaps and superglue gel for slightly wider ones.
As Ray mentioned, auto body glazing putty is great. I use Bondo 907 red putty and there’s no shrinkage, it doesn’t give off much in the way of fumes (but still use good ventilation) and literally sands smooth as glass. Best of all, 4.5 ounces will cost you around $3.50 and last a long time.
If you can find it, Mr. Hobby (Gunze Sango) Mr. disolved putty. A wounderful product! It’s thin enough to basicly brush on and easy to sand. Alas, with the changes to import laws, it is nearly impossible to get and I’m out!
I’ve very occasionally had this happen. I think it may be down to the Milliput or the area to which it’s being applied being too wet. A quick wicking with a paper towel usually sorts things. If sanding the surrounding area isn’t an issue (and it usually is, because that’s normally why you’re using Milliput in the first place), you could also give the area to which the Milliput is being applied a light sanding, to give it something to grip.
One thing against Milliput (and for modelling purposes, ony the white superfine variety really has any uses - other grades are too coarse in texture) is that you always end up mixing too much. There again, the stuff has a shelf life of only two years,once you’ve opened the pack, and I’ve never used a full pack during that time yet. And you can always find alterative uses for left-over Milliput…
[8D]
Cheers,
Chris.