what huey to make

It seems no one has considered making the Revell Hog into a B-model. This would not be that difficult if you just robbed the rotor (and shorten to 44 scale feet) from an Italeri (kit #849) or AMT 1/48 D model (kit#8867). The rotors and rotor head looks better on the Italeri, in my opinion, but the trailing edges of the rotor blade are incorrect and will need to be sanded down. You would also need to add the blade counterweights to the rotor haed, but that shouldn’t be too difficult (You can also get these from a 1/48 Fujimi UH-1B, kit. #31015, rotors are BAD on this kit though) . Also, the Hog model has fuel filler points on BOTH sides. You could just fill in the left filler point and leave the right one. Oh, and you need to leave off the roof mounted pitot tube and scratch one for the nose (if you want a B model). If you build a C model or late model B you could remove the FM antenae from the nose. I don’t think a ship would have both the FM antenae on the nose and the “towel bar” FM antennae as well (right, Gino)? A late B model would also most likely sport the M-21 armamant system with miniguns which you could also get from the armed 1/48 AMT UH-1D and XM-157 (already in the HOG kit) or M-158 7 shot rocket pods (the 158 pods with individual tubes replaced the older XM-157’s). Most important of all is to rememebr that this is an ARMY Huey not a MARINE Huey so you got to get new decals (Unless you have Revell kit. 04476, which also has Army decals). Marines flew the UH-1E which had a distinct housing for the rescue hoist mounted on the roof and used the TK-2 mounting system with a different weapons arrangement. There is a lot to consider if you want your bird to be completely accurate. Good luck!

Ray

Welcome to the Forums Smartaft.

The old often issued and always seen on the shelves Huey Hog kit is an old, tired kit. What you see here is pretty typical of old kits that are being popped from worn out molds Even when itwas new, it was not a great kit, and that was some thirty years ago.

As far as locating pins go, I never use them and sand them right off when I cut the part off the sprue.

Nine times out of ten (*unless it is a Bandai kit) they are wrong anyway! If you need to, superglue some small plastic tabs inside the kit to help you line up your parts and keep them aligned while the glue dries.

Thanks for posting up the pics, thats quite a photo gallery you have on this one

David