What glue do you guys use. I was using the Testers in the triangular black applicator. I liked it till it hardened up after a few weeks use. I would be willing to try something different if there are any suggestions.
Ahoy Fellow Modeler,
You’ll find that one glue does not serve all purposes and you will eventually end up with an assortment of adhesives with different characteristics. I usually use a liquid cement applied with a brush and even with these I have two varities. For light work I use Tenax 7R, for heavier, more durable assemblies, I use Testor’s liquid (in the square bottle). My next choice is the Testor’s product you described, which is a very good choice if you’re not dealing with a seam or part of the model that will be exposed. I use CA (superglue) for very small parts and when I’m bonding non plastic material or when I’ve got a gap to fill. (I’ve known others who use CA exclusively when building). I also use Testor’s white for canopies and other clear parts. Hope this helps (and this is my short answer!).
Tom
I use Testors (in the tube) and Ambroid ProWeld liquid glue when I am building a stryene kit. When I am using resin or p/e parts or when I need to fill a seam, I like to use regular and gap filling super glue.
I use a number of glue’s depending on the situation.
Mainly I use EMA Plastic Weld ( liquid poly ) and a slightly thicker ‘presision polly’ from Revell. For fixing ‘unlike’ materials or small parts I want to stay fixed, I use SuperGlue ( Crazy Glue ) Cyanoacrylate.
Karl
[:)]
I use Testors Non-Toxic Model Cement from the tube. I’ve never used any other adhesive, and don’t intend to ever use another adhesive! I love my non-toxic model cement! TESTORS IS H4X0R OMG!!1!!11!
I use Ambroid ProWeld for plastic and for unlike or painted parts I use epoxy. White blue for canopies and CA as a last resort. I have regular and gap filling formulas. I’ve learned to dislike CA. If it runs onto a painted surface it plays havoc with just about everything and sanding is the only solution. Not what I want to do if it happens after a finish is done and I’m just gluing on the last pieces. I have tube glue but never use it. Unless sniffing.
For most plastic to plastic bonding, I use Testors liquid cement, for stronger plastic to plastic bonds, I go with their tube cement.
For load bearing assmblies, I go with the superglue.
If I have unlike materials, I usually will go with the superglue, but if I have large enough contact surfaces on the parts, I’ll go with 5 minute epoxy, Elmer’s usually, but I’ll grab Devcon when I can find it.
My favorite is Ambroid Pro-Weld. I used to use it a while ago, then switched to the testors liquid glue for a while. I recently went back to Ambroid and wow, what a difference. It just seems to dry quicker and weld the pieces together so much stronger.
I use CA whenever I can’t use pro-weld, and have started using epoxy as well.
Murray
I use Weld-on #3, primarily since I get as much as I want free from the manufacturer. Its good to have connections!
I’m one of those CA or nothing types. I use both the medium and thin thicknesses for everything I build.
CA comes in different types. Some is very fast setting (5-15 seconds), some gives you a bit more time to play with your placements, and some types are better for filling and later sanding. I use epoxy for metal-to-metal and some load-bearing pieces. I still like Testors tube for styrene-to-styrene, but I apply with a nozzle, toothpick or wire, and have to watch out for stringing. Testors liquid is great for basic assembly, but I’ve started using CA most of that. Testor’s White is good for clear parts.
Well, if you are talking clear parts, I use white glue. Keeps all the fogging problems away!