Trent, your camo scheme on the Tiger looks fantastic!
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Thank you, good sir. Absolutely. There’s no slapping these types of builds together. I got the vision, planned the build, compiled the parts together, lot’s and lots of measuring, lots and lots of trial and error. Eventually I see the vision come to fruition. Heres where i stopped last night. I got the floor, firewall, and transmission crossmember squared away. Now I can make the trans tunnel and bring the steering column up.
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DTimmerman89,
I did pick up one Mini-Art P-47; the RAF “Thunderbolt II” advanced kit boxing. I agree the box is full. Lotsa plastic.
My first impression is the panel lines are much to prominent and the rivets (lots and lots of rivets) may be overdone. I think after the flat camouflage paint is applied these may not be a noticeable.
I downloaded the “Basic Kit” instructions from Scalemates since i probably won’t do the full engine or upper wing armament panels open.
Tamiya’s T-bolts hold up surprisingly well after 20+ years.
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Yeah, I do agree with you on the panels and rivets, but I enjoy being able to see that stuff on 48 scale aircraft… it sure beats the old monolithic raised panel lines. I am a glutton for punishment in the detail department and I intend to do a maintenance diorama with everything opened up.
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Get well soon, Tony.
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Oh, that Wyoming license plate caught my eye instantly; I was living in Casper when that plate was out. Natrona County FTW!
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I have to take some time and do the same. I keep telling myself I’ll do it after I finish this F-86 I’m working on.
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Wow! Very nice work!
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Fantastic! Scratch build an engine stand and call it done
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Thanks a lot! This is the engine for the A-1 Skyraider. Those are the engine mounts. Looking forward to moving on to the cockpit soon.
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Awesome work. Is the specs plate a decal?
Cheers,
Mark
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Ding ding ding !!!
We have a winner !
Im still looking for a set from Albany County and Laramie County.
James esq
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Thank you. They are decals. Airscale makes data plates, cockpit plaques, and cockpit dial faces.
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I finished the repop from Atlantis of Snoopy’s Ice Hockey with Woodstock and his birdbath. It’s a Snap Kit so few parts and easy construction but it was a perfect kit for getting me out of my “Modeling Funk” that I’ve had since before the holidays.
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I knew I forgot something. Well, maybe not forgot, but more like I’ve wanted to add this for awhile, but I just didn’t know how.
Currently scratch building from tiny pieces of leftover sprue a 1/350 scale “JIM” deep diving hard suit to add to my oceanographic ship I finished late last year. After I finish the hard suit, then I need to come up with a way to scratch build a small 1/350 scale shark cage. Front and back sides of the hard suit shown below.
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Staying warm and working on projects today. Got the windows for the Nautilus all masked and clear coated before we get to assembling. Also found out the extra sprue for the Meng Achzarit seats should have been a pair instead of just one, so I’m going to mold copies using Blue Stuff…
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Yesterday and today I put into practice a technique that I’ve seen discussed here on occasion, but had never before utilized - sprue goo. I mixed up a small batch yesterday and did my first application along some seams on the B-50 that I am building. This morning, the goo that I applied had dried sufficiently to allow for some sanding. The effort was not bad but not quite good enough, so I used some more of the goo in a more targeted application to fill in some spots that didn’t quite look right. Now it’s drying for the remainder of the day; we’ll see what it looks like tomorrow.
But today’s big effort was to try a new material for masking clear parts. I came across a thread on FSM (that I have since lost when my computer decided to reboot itself one night) where the builder used something called heat transfer tape to mask clear parts. The selling point was the lack of residue left behind upon removing the tape. Also, it is quite transparent, making it easier to see the panel lines where the tape needs to be cut. The key thing here, though, is to use a brand new blade in your knife. A used, dull blade such as I first tried with simply will not cut this tape.
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A shark cage in that scale may have to be done in photoetch. Some mesh or maybe handrails from a ship formed into a cube….?
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