What caused this cracked paint or clear coat?

Months after my model was painted. The entire model has spider web cracks like this. I can’t tell if it’s the clear coat that’s cracked or the paint underneath. The candy red was airbrushed with Alclad. It’s top coated with Future polish. I’m really hoping of a way to correct this. Brushing another coat of Future did nothing. [:'(]

crack paint

i would guess its the paint underneath the clearcoat but i have no first hand experience with this issue. did you give the paint enough time to gas out before you clear coated it?

im really curious to know how you achieved this effect, i think it looks kind of cool.

No, I thought I can clear coat when the base paint is dry to touch? It’s just a candy red over gold base.

So you didn’t let it cure at least 24 hours then? Dry to touch is not completely dried, cured coat of paint.

No i did not know i had to wait.

Hi, Eric - For my use the rule is dry time at room temperature, (or higher,) of at least 48 hours. As the paint vents the gasses it will shrink, as part of the curing process. If clear coats or other paints are applied before the curing process is completed, then risk of that crinkling is present.

I think Don Stauffer gave the best description of that effect not long ago, if he stops by maybe he will add more than I’m able to.

Just my thoughts, but for me I wait 24 hours for lacquer, 48 hours for enamel or acrylics. Maybe overkill, but I haven’t experienced that wrinkling in a very long time.

Patrick

So this also applies when you do candy colors? Because you need 3 to 4 layers of different colors to create candy colors.

My guess - yes. Candy colors are a new animal as far as paint is concerned. They have to be done in several light coats to achieve the color you want.

Eric,

I think with multi coat candy paint coats, you would lay on the coats in progression with just enough time for the last layer to still be wet enough to accept the next coat. 10 to 20 minutes should be sufficient. That allows the previous coat to set up enough to prevent a run, but still receive the next coat.

Where trouble begins is when the final coat of paint is laid on, and prior to the clear coat being applied the paint has not had sufficient time to dry fully.

So for transparent colors, keep laying on the successive coats with several minutes between coats, then allow for as much time as needed for sufficient drying and shrinking. Clear coats, 48 hours or more between last color coat. Should do the trick.

Let us know if you find that works for you.

Patrick

If I’m correct, I think that ALCLAD candy coats are enamel-based? If that’s so, old-timers will tell you that enamels take weeks to properly gas out. Enamels are big in auto modeling, and I avoid them for precisely that reason.

Well I’m not familiar with the candy finishes from Alclad but it’s almost assuredly enamel from what I see. You don’t have to be an oldtimer to know enamel takes days to fully cure. Lacquer doesn’t cure and is as dry as it’s ever going to get within minutes, so you wouldn’t have this problem if that’s the case. I’ve seen this before and it’s always been a case of clear coating over uncured enamel.

Yes the candy color is enamel. So the only way to fix this would be repainting?

I can’t see the photos - for some reason your website is blocked here at work [sn0ps] However, from the discussion, I have some ideas.

If the base coat is intact, and only the clear coat is cracked, you might be able to strip the Future and reapply. Future will come off with ammonia, as any housewife will attest (if you can find one anymore - LOL) The risk is that the ammonia might strip off the layer(s) of paint below.

But if you’re using Alclad’s paints, is there a reason you’re not using Alclad’s clear? It’s a very good product IMHO.

All the best!

i don’t think it’s the topcoat. I tried removing it with windex, it did nothing. Also from my understanding now, it’s not really what i use verus when i use the clear coat.