does anyone have any recommendations on weights to hold the nose down on aircraft with tri-cycle landing gear? I’ve tried several different methods (BB’s, Epoxy, lead weights, etc.) and none of them so far seem to be just the right fix.[?]
take a look at this forum
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2988
There’s some good ideas here
BB’s n’ Elmers glue have always been reliable for me.
I’ve always been a BB and superglue man myself. If you need a more dense/smaller unit to work with, go down to your local gun store and buy a bag of birdshot. The shot is smaller than BB’s, so more will fit into the same space. You’ll get a lifetime supply for about $20.
Tom
Butch:
Being from West MI. and raised with Hollanders I have a different approch. When at the tire store ask the tire person for some old tire weights.Clip or saw off the ends, depending on hand strength,being careful not to ingest the lead. Throw away clip part. Add as much as you need, to keep nose down, to hidden cavities of the model. I use Walthers Goo from the Model Railroading section but any thick adhesive that doesn’t melt plastic will do. Cheap and easy!
Chief John
I have a bottle of split weights used for fishing, but as stated above bird shot is goods too. I have considered using sand mixed with white glue, but have yet to try it.
To eliminate the guess work, I use Terry Dean’s nose weights. Do a search on www.google.com for “nose weights” to see some of his products and reviews and get his e-mail address. His prices are super reasonable. Plus, he’s great to work with. The weights are designed to be completely hidden. So, you don’t have to worry about how the model will be displayed.
try molding resin into the nose cone then pour silicon over top then pour solid lead into the mold
Fishing weights and BB’s with Elmer’s has worked for me so far without problems. - Ed
I got a margarine tube full of #6 shot from a sporting goods store and mix it with 5 minute epoxy. it’s small enough to fit in tight places and shapes itself. No cutting or messing. I put it in cowls, the nose, any where forward of the main gear. I also put it in the armor I build, so they don’t feel like toys.
I either pour in some skeet shot and seal it with superglue, or I glue a few bullets (just the lead part) (I used to reload and have leftover components) into the forward fuselage. 55gr. .223 boatial FMJs fit into most places, 240 gr. .44 JHPs will weigh just about anything down. 
i had a suggestion to get the tire weights that have an adhesive backing…they are for aluminum wheels i believe. I stopped by a tire shop today, and got two strips…cost me a buck. the strips were scored in 1/2 oz increments…looks like it will be really easy to use.
How do you guys make sure the landing gear can take the weight? Have any of you had gear collapse or distort over time?
Regards,
-Drew
Only ever had one collapse on me That was a DC6 and it was my fault for putting too much weight in. Glad you managed to get gold of some of those wheel weights Huskerguy i have used them for quite a while now and never had any problems with them. Gregers
I really never had any gear collapse on me, but I do worry about the resin kits. Resin landing legs are not very strong.
i am having all kinds of problems with both the nose gear and the main gear on my P-61. Once they break off, it is really hard to get them glued back strong enough that they will hold.
Thanks again, Gregers, for the tip on the adhesive wheel weights…it is pretty neat the way they are scored, so you know exactly how much weight you have.
I place a vote for BB’s (or lead shot) and Elmer’s White glue … but, in some kits … watch out that you don’t get the nose TOO heavy … you just might cause that nose gear to break or bend … not a great look eh? [:(]
Hi Huskerguy The way i repaired the nose gear on my DC6 was i made a new leg for it out of steel rod with brass tube sleeved over it, the rod ran the length of the leg and i drilled a (very) small hole in the top of the u/c fork and stuck the rod into this with epoxy glue hope this helps. i got the rod and tube from a model railway shop…Gregers
Well, the best ballast is no ballast at all!
MODEL YOUR PLANES WITH THE LANDING GEAR UP!! GEAR DOWN PLANES ARE SIN!!!
Just been doing a bit of D.I.Y. and had an idea that self adhesive stuff for doing leaded windows should make good nose weight and at £12 for 60 MTRS its cheap and it’ll last a lifetime…Gregers