Greetings. I’m just getting back into modeling after 45 years away and trying to learn the new techniques. I jumped right in with a Tamiya King Tiger. I have airbrushed it with the 3 color camouflage scheme with Tamiya acrylics, and now want to begin the process of weathering. I’ve read different approaches to this. Could someone answer some questions for me, please?
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Should I apply a clear coat over the base, or do the weathering first?
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If clear coat first, does it matter if it’s acrylic or enamel clear coat?
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Finally, if I put enamel on, will the acrylic paints adhere to it, or will I have to do all my weathering with enamels? Thanks for any help.
BTW, I used the silly putty masking technique, which worked really well for masking, but I used Tamiya spray can dark yellow before applying the red-brown and the stuff liquified the silly putty. I nearly had a disaster taking it off, I think some is still stuck in crevices! I’m glad to be part of the community, and hope to be able to add to the conversations when I learn a few things.
OK, so no takers. eh?! Here’s what I’m thinking now that I’ve looked around at various posts here. If someone could at least nod or shake their head in amazement at my stupidity, that would be helpful.
- Should I apply a clear coat over the base, or do the weathering first?
My answer: Clear coat before weathering so the thinned paint can run over a smoother, more consistent surface, and if I don’t like the effect, I can remove it without messing up my base coat. Just make sure I am happy with the base coat before I cover it up!
- If clear coat first, does it matter if it’s acrylic or enamel clear coat?
My answer: It doesn’t matter, but an enamel clear coat will take more abuse.
- Finally, if I put enamel on, will the acrylic paints adhere to it, or will I have to do all my weathering with enamels?
My answer: Acrylic won’t adhere well to enamel, even a clear coat. But it may not matter because it isn’t likely to be disturbed very much anyway unless I want to apply multiple effects. If so, do all effects work in enamel, and be patient to let it dry. It’s not that much extra expense because weathering only involves a few colors.
So, how’d I do?
Barrett, first off, welcome back to the hobby. [Y]
As to your inquiries, I’ll address 'em on at a time ( but keep in mind that I build mostly WWI aircraft [;)] )
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Depends on what type of weathering mediums you’re using. Pastels & pigments adhere well to a matte surface whereas washes are easier to control on a glossy surface.
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What medium is your wash? An acrylic clear coat will protect your base coat from the solvents in enamel-based washes, and vice versa. My personal clear coat preference is acrylic.
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Acrylic paints and clear coats adhere just fine to enamel base coats. No problem there.
I have recently started to use oil washes over acrylics and I really like them. I thin the artists oil paint about 10%: 90% with hardware store mineral spirits, and apply with a flat brush. Use flat acryics- no clear or gloss coat required. I find it leaves a nice even color, subtle and thin, over the surface, yet fills up the details for accent nicely. it’s easy to control the effect by varying the oil / thinner ratio, and you have an infinite amount of colors to chose from.
I have found that washes made of acrylics or enamels tend to run off and disappear. But that may be my personal skill limitation, too.
Also I like to rub on dry weathering powders, as a final step on top or the wash. Micro-Mark sells a set of 12 jars of “Doc O’Brien’s Weathering Powders.” I have used them for years and can highly recommend them. I usually just rub them on with the tip of my finger, then blend with a tissue to feather the colors out to the desired intensity, and they give a dry or dusty or dirty look, depending on what colors you use, but always use this stuff sparingly.
When finished, I usually spray on a light coat of flat clear, to keep the powders from rubbing off over time. But this will change the colors somewhat, so be aware before doing this.
The fun of these methods is that you just free-hand it with great abandon- (especially good for armor models) - quite different from my usual meticulous masking and precision painting on aircraft. I don’t use any masking on armor models, and I like the way they look with that method.
Mike, Thanks much. A lot of flexibility there. Really interesting.
Thanks, Cadet Chuck. Ok, so that’s why I have been reading about folks using artists oils. That helps a lot. I’ll get the Doc’s kit. I have the Tamiya sets, but the materials are so hard that it’s difficult to use. I appreciate you taking the time.
Have you tried asking in the Armor forum? You’ll get some great specifics there as well.
Yeah, and there are tons of posts on the subject of weathering. Just use the search box on the right hand side of the screen “search the community.” You’ll get enough info to keep you busy for days!
It took me awhile to get the hang of the Tamiya kits, too. I thought they were dried out, but found if you rub them a bit hard with your fingertip, they’re slightly greasy and you’ll pick up enough to rub off on your model using your finger. I guess you could call this “digital weathering!”
Thanks Nathan T and Cadet Chuck. You’re right. After I posted my question, I started looking around at earlier posts and learned a lot. It’s great to have this site. There’s a lot of experience here.