I have used the Abteilung oil paints and low odor turpentine to do streaking effects. Used black and brown for the streaking on the insides of this F-16 engine exhaust.
Used powdered graphite for the gun gas streaking on the same F-16. All of the surface wash and panel lines on this one were my first time using Flory. Never going back to other washes.
Do you generally do a final matte coat over the Flory wash?
I have no extensive data to prove anything, but turpentine MIGHT be safe with oils. I did some Bandai mini Star Wars kits with oils thinned with turpentine, and had no problems.
Bandai has some weird issues, like the brittle plastic thing, their insistence on switching to KPS plastic for “no polycap construction” which does NOT work, and their continued use of stupid stickers.
Generally, yes, but that just depends on what you want your final sheen to be. For cockpits, after I do a Flory wash, I clearcoat those with a semi-matte. Landing gear and gear bays I do semi-gloss over the Flory.
I second the Flory stuff. Makes for fun pics too 
I’ve got this set - not cheap though
Using mineral spirits or white spirits with an oil wash is (at some point) eventually going to cause the plastic to self destruct.
I did that once many years ago and the plastic (Tamiya) became brittle just like a striped candy cane that has been broken.
I always use Turpenoid IN THE BLUE CAN…
Works on everything so far. Never had a problem since.
How long do let the oil and turpenoid wash sit on the model before remove? I had a user here twenty four hours.
Yes enamel washes are hotter,the artist oils and their thinner are milder.
Mineral spirits are enamel,turpenoid is what you want,like this
If you decide to try Flory,use a new brush and only use it for Flory,other paint and thinners will contaminate the Flory.
A damp swab works well
I wouldn’t use that combination as a wash as it would very likely have the same results as your enamels. When I used oil paints for streaking effects, I put a tiny drop of it where I want to begin the streak and use a Q-Tip to pull it into a streak. After that, I use Q-Tips that are barely damp with Turpentine to remove whatever thickness of the oil paint needs to be removed for the desired effect. I wouldn’t let anything like that just sit on the model for any length of time. But…that’s me.
Yes it’s a technique to be practiced,it’s called stumping,you basically dab on a streak of oil paint,then drag the brush down until your original streak is faded out and looks like a run,practice on other stuff till you get it.
Yes,unless your final finish need to be gloss,a clear coat will protect it from any future techniques.
So in this case I would imaginge you’d…
That the general idea?
Yes,the only thing, some people do the streaking on gloss,some do it on flat,I prefer the doing it on a flat finish,and it works for me.
Do a Google search and see what opinions other modelers have,and see what works for you.
Turpentine can cause pulmonary edema, a dangerous health condition that will cause individuals to suffer from excessive fluid in the lungs. Heart problems often cause this fluid, but it’s also been associated with exposure to toxins such as turpentine. It can occur over some time, or it can come on suddenly.
Turpenoid is considered nonhazardous according to GHS classifications for the Hazard Communication Standard. Treat all laboratory chemicals with caution. Although this material is considered to be nonhazardous, unpredictable reactions among chemicals are always possible. Prudent laboratory practices should be observed.
Using a little bit of turpentine, here and there on a Q-tip for streaking on a model isn’t likely to be an issue. The other issues associated with it come from high levels of exposure, which us modelers usually don’t experience.