Hello,
I was just wondering what techniques there are for weathering decals.
Rick
Filter and wash the model with the decals already applied,also dirty them up with whatever pigments you might weather with.
on my Polar Bear,
I just applied the decals and let them dry.
http://www.happinessismandatory.com/misc/Models/Wave_Polar_Bear/Build_Images/PB_090425_Decals_body2.jpg
very lighty landed them with 400 or 800 git sand paper. did I mention very very lightly. It comes off easier than you think.
http://www.happinessismandatory.com/misc/Models/Wave_Polar_Bear/Build_Images/PB_090504_Body_2.jpg
Then applied my dirty Wash
http://www.happinessismandatory.com/misc/Models/Wave_Polar_Bear/Build_Images/PB_090512_Body_08.jpg
Then applied some Weathering powerders to smooth it all out.
http://www.happinessismandatory.com/misc/Models/Wave_Polar_Bear/Build_Images/PB_090514_Finished_3.jpg
I was very happy with it and it was not hard at all. This was my first time at weathering decals. I just had to get over my fear of screwing it up.
Flat or gloss coat the decals (depending on your preference for overall weathering), and then weather the entire model using your normal weathering techniques. This ensures consistent overall weathering.
Unless it is a complicated camouflage pattern, I overspray the decals with a very light misting of the color under the decals. This has to be with an airbrush to get this very light coating. You can make decals look very faded this way.
I also sometimes weather models by overspraying top surfaces with a lightened mix of the color on these surfaces, including the upward facing decals.
Don - I’m extremely curious about this. My P-51B has just had decals applied and sealed. I was going to move on to a wash, but think I may try your technique. I’m assuming this uses a very highly thinned paint, similar to what you’d use for a blending coat or post-shading?
Not too thin. You absolutely don’t want the paint to run. A double action airbrush is best, but I do it sometimes with my single action, with needle adjusted for minimal flow, and a greater than normal distance from airbrush to model.
I’ve only needed to do it once,but I waited for the setting solution to really soften up the decals so I could carefully scrape away at them to represent wear and tear/battle damage.Worked like a charm.
I’m going to chime in with Doug’s advise about fading. The greater than normal distance really helps as the paint is almost dried by the time it hits the surface. Just go slow, you can always add more fading, but very difficult to remove.
I’m hesitant to put too much distance between the brush and the model since I’m spraying Tamiya and already suffered some dusting issues. Instead I went with a well-thinned mix and a low PSI (my Iwata seems perfectly happy shooting highly thinned paint at 5-7 psi with no spatters, runs, or anything).
Overall, it turned out pretty well and provided just about the amount of fade I wanted.
The weird thing about this shot is that it looks like there’s a hint of green on the “V” that’s not there in person. I’m guessing the iPhone’s image sensor isn’t subtle enough in how it manages tonal gradations…I’ll have to pull out the big Nikon and see how it handles things.