After a very long hiatus, I’ve returned to my youthfull model-building days. I especally enjoy German equipment as engaged on the Eastern Front.
As a returned newbie, how can I get that worn weather-beaten application?
Also, I am not too pleased with some of the infantry poses that come in the sets. They seem all about assaulting a target. Is it possible to reposition a figure without casuing much damage?
Thanx much!
First off, welcome back!! second, can’t help much on the figures, other than telling you to try some other manufacter, DML models makes tons of figures, so Im sure you could find lots of at rest figures. Also, theres always resin, which in case you dont know is more expensive, but some people says it’s more detailed, and you can find a huuuge variety of figure poses. About the weather, ive learned a thing or two. The two types of weathering to me are “worn weathering” and “dirty weathering” Worn weathering o me is stuff like faded/chipped paint, scratches/rust and that kind of stuff, and "dirty weathering is stuff like mud/dust and stuff that isnt really permanent, but those are jsut my classifications for it. Hmmm, where to begin…theres so much to know about weathering. First for chipped paint, theres a few methods. First, you can prime your model in a rust color, or any color that you want the chips to look like. Next, lightly wet the model with a rag and sprinkle salt, in whatever size you want the chips, to the places where you want the chips. Finish painting the model, and then lightly brush the salt off, leaving “paint chips” in the primered color. Also, many people just freehand chips with a tiny bbrush, and yet more people use a graphite pencilo make it look like its worn through to bare metal. Another popular method for weathering is Washes. after putting on a basecoat, spray the model with something to protect the paint. Many people use Future Floor Wax sprayed through an airbrush. Next, thin some paint in whatever color you want the wash, most people use 9 part thinner to 1 part paint, and once the future dries, apply the wash all over the model. Once it dried, dip a Qtip (ear cleaner/cotton swab thingy) in paint thinner, and scrub away the wash where you dont want it, leaving it in the panel lines and around rivets and stuff to bring out detail. Most people use either black or a rust color, just remember to seal the basecoat, or THE WASH WILL DAMAGE THE PAINT. I wont go into detail on rust, because there are so many ways to do it. you can also drybrush. Put some metal colored paint on a stuff wide old brush, and brush 90% of it off on a piece of paper, then lightly drag the bristles oove the model, and they will deposit paint only on the highest parts, sich as on top of rivets, and look like worn away paint, but try this out before on your model. Next for dirty weathering…there are far too many methods to go into detail. For mud, you can make a mix of glue, and dirt and apply it to the model in places, or cover an old tooth brush in brown pain, and pull back the bristles and “flick” paint on to look like mud splatter. but again try this on paper before touching the model.
There are far too many methods to describe all, but these are a few. Try the search bar, or specific questions for better help. Hope to see some results, and hope this makes sens and helps, Ian
I butcher my figures. Reposing is not that hard once you learn to do it. I suggest getting some cheap figures you’ll never use and start cutting them up and reposing for practice.
Say you want to make a bent arm straight again. Cut the arm at the bend, and using putty, fill in the gap of the arm that is created by cutting it. Then use your exacto to re-shape the arm once it has dried. This method seems to work fine for me. I’m sure the more experienced guys here have better methods though.
If you don’t have it already, some of the best money you can spend on “How To” books is Sheperd Paine’s “Building and Painting Scale Figures”. For that matter, anything you can get by Paine is worth its weight in gold. He is the master.
Welcome back! I hope it’s as fun as you remember!
Thanks much for the info! From your messages, I guess the best thing to do is experiment.
I redo mine all the time. I cut the joints with a razor saw, and use a gap filling CA super-glue to glue them back to together again. Depending on the original pose vs the new pose, you may have to either shorten or lengthen the limb sections to get the final figure in proper proportion. So when I’m gluing back body parts, I’ll tack them in place with just a small drop of CA glue where they meet. I then really look at the figure from all angls to make sure that the new limbs don’t look too short or too long, before doing the final gluing and filling. After filling in the joint with CA glue, I’ll use my jeweller’s file and exacto knife to get the final shape and carve any necessary creases in the clothing. After painting, they’re good as new.
Welcome back, and prepare to spend a lot[:O]
As far as the figures go, check in with the Figures section of this forum. With repositioning limbs, the above advice is great and it’s good to get into practice- cutting, bending (heat), cussing things into shape. I suggest also doing advanced searches on ebay for other people’s spares. For instance, “1/35 figure part” or “1/35 builders lot” in Toys and Hobbies. You can find a massive lot of spare body parts for cheap. If cutting and bending are a little too touchy for you at first, simply try different ones. It’s good to stockpile, this hobby nurtures the packrat in us. Keep an eye out for local modeling shows (IPMS, etc); there are usually vendors selling off their stuff. It’s a great way to start your arsenal of parts- body, vehicle, diorama accessories- for reduced rates.
With weathering, you are at the beginning of a broad and sometimes confusing learning curve, but HAVE NO FEAR and be patient with yourself. If it doesn’t work, try again. If it still doesn’t work, ask here. Ask very specific questions. No matter what the problem is, somebody’s been there before and folks on this forum are always happy to help. Be sure to read everything you can find on the different concepts of model building/painting/decaling/weathering. Google is your friend for websites, build logs and reference photos.
Have fun, and build build build!
Steve