I would appreciate the input of experienced aircraft builders on realistically weathering Aluminum. I am talking after the panel differentiations have been done with paint. What kind of wash would work over MM enamel sealed with clearcoat to achieve realistic results. Or other techniques.
There are sometimes enormous variations of panel weathring color of the same metal on the same aircraft.
Thanks
Check this out. http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/WW2/JulianSeddon/P-51/P-51.html
Jerry
This is Alclad aluminum oversprayed with Tamiya clear yellow…not sure if this was what you had in mind, but I liked the effect, especially after studying a few reference pics. It’s the cockpit tub for an Me 262A-1a.
The P51 is absolutely outstanding, and somewhat on the lines of what I’m trying for… however I have a
B-36 and it is quite large. The clear yellow is also a good idea as my reference photos have parts of the metal looking quite yellowish…I will test that out…I also find that a wash of burnt umber oil paint thinned over MM steel results in a yellowish tinge for whatever reason
Thanks and love to hear from anyone else
I’m afraid I don’t have a technique for weathering aluminum, but I do have a tiny bit of advice. The B-36 was generally a very well-maintained and clean aircraft. Thus, it would be accurate to keep any weathering to a minumum. I only drybrushed some exhaust stains on mine. (The model didn’t come out the best, but it’s still find advice.)
Good luck with your build, though. The B-36 is one of my favorite aircraft. [;)]
Also don’t forget that the B-36 was largely magnesium construction rather than aluminum. Not sure how much a difference that could make, different metals do weather differently.
Wilbur,
There is a way I read many moons ago for representing the various shades of skin seen on an all-metal aircraft, and this information may be of use to you. It is based on Humbrol paint colours, but with experimentation, it could work with various other types of paint. Have to hand the following shades of Humbrol - A- either Silver(11) or Aluminium (56), B - Light Blue (65), C - Gunmetal (53), D - Brass (12), E - Medium Brown (62), F - White (40), G - Black (33), H - Medium Grey (HB6).
Because aircraft skin panels are of different thicknesses, the actual aluminium takes on a slightly different colour hue, even though they are all made from the same material. As a result, as you apply these shades and mixes, you can simulate the shade differences as you paint, rendering the weathering easier to do, since the colour variations are achieved through painting, rather than later ‘tinted’ weathering.
A + B (in the ratio of 3 parts A to 1 part B) Basic average light alloy colour for areas of average skin thickness.
A + B + C (ratio 2, 2, 1) Darker skin areas such as leading edges.
A + B + F (ratio 1, 1, 1) Lighter skin areas such as flying control surfaces and undercarriage doors.
A + B + D (ratio 1, 1, 1) Slightly stained areas such as undersides, panels aft of u/c doors, vents and openings.
C + D + G (ratio 1, 1, 1) Jet pipes, engine cylinders and insides of vents.
A + B + Graphite dust (ratio 1,1 for the paint) Polish the painted panel and then dust/brush on graphite dust. This technique can be used where you see slightly darker or shinier panels on the model.
Once these colours have been applied, you should then seal the finish before weathering.
It may seem complex, but have a go with an old model first - you will be surprised how, with some experimenting, you can achieve a very realistic finish! Try different combinations and ratios or even different colours! The effects are good fun and it means that after sealing, all you have to do is weather the whole thing without having to ‘tint’ your wash!
I hope this helps and leads to readers thinking laterally about finishes. Enjoy!
I guess I meant skin panel colour rather than true weathering. There is quite a variation on panel color with the research photos I have, and indeed some panels have a yellowish hue to them. I saw your B-36 and it came out nice. I downloaded one of your pictures when they were up. Masking this bird is a real PIA.
I may try parafilm-M to avoid future residue, which was somewhat present with normal pactra hobby masking tape over my magnesium mix (which was first coat) . I’ll get up some pictures when I can. Thanks for the input.
Future residue meaning future time… not “Future”… no pun intended.
Thanks for those details Colin
Colin,
That looks like a way kewel method to try out. Thank you.
That’s just sick! A ton of work, but the result is amazing.
Wilbur, I think what you’re after is subtle differences in panel shade and color. This is precisely why Alclad makes a pile of different shades. Just shoot the model with one shade, then mask off selected panels and use a different shade. I know of some modelers who use as many as 6 different Alclad shades on the same model and it looks very convincing.
Jerry