I’ve started on my 1st serious car since I was a kid! I’m doing a VW Microbus for my best friend. He’s a fanatic for sure!
It’s a 1/24 by Hasegawa. I’m planning some mods and have gotten a few started.
I cut a relief in the seats so they look like they are 2 pieces.
Then I made up a jig so I could bend some brass tube to make the seat supports. The big plastic walls weren’t going to cut it for this. Got the cut made for the fold down seat. The parts are all sitting on the work table waiting on the filler to dry as there’s a great big notch molded into the back of the seats that doesn’t belong.
Lots of creative juices flowing so far on this one. Even contemplating removing the fake plastic tonneau cover and making something out of vinyl…any ideas on material or how to do this would be awesome. But for now I’m working on windows, lots and lots of windows…
Got a question about windows for you guys. Is it possible to use the Testors window maker on large windows? I’m experimenting with the panoramic windows on this 23-window bus. I took this wet so it was visible. This is the Hasegawa Bus so the windows are 2 big panels that glue inside. Would love some other options from you guys as I have no experience here.
I find those window making materials can be used for windows about quarter inch square or so. But larger windows are problematic with that stuff.
For larger windows I just cut them from clear acrylic or clear styrene. Gluing in windows can be a problem too, as many glues disfigure the clear materials. I have been using that new UV hardening glue. Only problem is that you need access to the glue line, as the laser light must impinge directly on the glue. Clear plastics are opaque to blue light. That means you must glue them in before closing up anything.
Been awhile. Honestly its just been little subassemblies and i figure everybody’s seen those. Since time has passed though here’s a brief update [A]
ive worked on the frame trying to make it look real. Some overspray on the frame rails and flat black in between the subframe supports. Stil need to wash the engine. These are just set in place. I won’t glue them in till after i mount the body.
prepping the interior. nothing provided in the kit behind the front seat So the doors need covered with something to rep the door panels.
just cleaning up the exterior. The bus I’m duplicating doesn’t have the big turn signal lights so they have to go.
I made a big switch in direction on the windows…big reveal later in the week once i paint the interior [;)]
This is looking great! Good attention to detail. Love the hand-crafted seat-support tubes. The body looks fine with a coat of primer, and I am waiting with bated breath to see what you do with the windows. [Y]
There’s also a tube that runs down the middle, or I suppose up the middle, of heated air thats collected over the cylinders and vented into the drivers compartment.
The transporter doesn’t exactly have a frame as it couldn’t be driven around without the body. But it’s different from the car, for sure.
Oh yeah that thing was a death trap in the northern winters! The tubes would rust out and pass exhaust up into the car. I remember driving around in my buddies bug with the windows down in the winter. Don’t ask how he defrosted the windshield [I][C]
Making some good progress on this. I love these buses!!! That’s funny about the windows down in the winter! When I was a kid I drove a 67 Mustang with no heater and no defrost. I eventually got it fixed after driving around in rainy/ colder weather with the windows either partially or all the way down to defrost the windshield. Unbelievable what we’ll endure when we’re younger. I wouldn’t dream of doing that these days. Gotta have my heater/ defroster and damn sure have to have that A/C.[;)]
Now the Hasegawa model of the bus isn’t very sophisticated - it has a lot of simplifications and omissions. There is a Revell model of the same machine - and this is very detailed. But you have to watch what you buy, because I believe Revell also used to rebox the Hasegawa, so it’s worth chcecking scalemates to see what you are going to get.
Here is the diagram showing what I mean and there is also a link to the building instructions of the newer Revell kit:
Pawel that was some nice reading. Great job on that lowered bus! Loved the suspension work for sure.
huge difference between the revel and Has kits based on the instructions. Funny, one of them is based on the other because both sets of instructions would have you put the exhaust pipe on so it would stick out into oncoming traffic [sn0ps]
Layed down the sealing-wax red today. More work to do on getting a good gloss but not bad for my 1st time i hope. Rubbing it out should help. I applied 3 coats of clear. It’s just a little patching, like i didnt get a good wet coat down consistently. Interior coming along as well.
Working on some miscellaneous stuff while I’m listening to monday night football.
1st off scratching together a new dash to match the bus I’m duplicating. A little glazing putty and rounding out all the corners should have the shape correct on this.
I really wanted the exhaust heating system. Discovered in the box a number of unused parts. One happened to be a driveshaft cover, or maybe a torque tube. Just long enough to run front to muffler as long as i cut out the cross bracing. This is all just set in place to mock it up. had to cut it down by 2/3rds and then sand it a little to fit. Don’t mind the dust, that means modeling is going on here [B] [:P]
just finished up the chestnut brown. Ohhh the chestnut brown is really laying down glossy! MCW didn’t have this color so i took some advice from a local club member that specializes in cars and went down to the local auto paint store. They were able to mix it up in a 2oz touch up bottle. cant wait to see both colors together…
Having figured out what i did wrong it’s finally time to fix the bus. Took 2 sanding sessions to get the paint cleaned off the front and smooth enough to primer.
the original problem was that I took the tape off too fast. The clear coat is pretty hot I guess. If it’s not allowed to dry for 15-20 minutes the base coat will pull right off the primer. Lesson learned.