I’m hoping someone can help me with a problem. I applied a black Vallejo wash, undiluted and let it DRY on two of my aircraft models. The models were sprayed with Future before the wash was applied. I can t wipe this stuff off to save my life, I used a cotton swab and some ISO but that is attacking the paint. Any help would be really appreciated.
Thanks,
I have this stuff in my paint box downstairs, and that’s where it stays. I think you’re meant to use acrylics over enamels, but being as I paint with acrylics, I suffered the same issue you did. I tried to thin it and get it to just flow into panel lines, really tough. Finally, I put it away and turned to Flory washes and diluted oils. WAY easier to control. Having just played with Flory washes for the first time, I highly recommend them. Oils aren’t too bad to work with, but Flory is the simplest method of all. Paint it all over, give it 20 minutes to dry, and wipe with a damp rag / q tip / makeup sponge.
As much as I really do like Vallejo products, I think their washes are the one product of theirs that I don’t like, personally.
Sorry I couldn’t be more help, but I haven’t found anything that works for them.
very helpful a I will look into those Flory Washes
I would only use Flory washes for this reason.
I have just begun to use Flory washes, and while they are great fun, and easy to use, I have not yet been able to get them to clean off completely, there is always some stain left on the flat surfaces. For a weathered kit this is fine, but if you are looking for a clean finish, it may be more difficult.
Not sure what I am doing incorrectly; I always apply it over a gloss coat, and have tried 2 different brands of gloss coat. Next will be to try it over Future. Sanding the gloss coat helps, but I have not found a way to sand in small spaces.
MGH,
you’re probably experiencing what I found when I recently tried weathering a spitfire with the Flory washes, and that is some degree of orange peel in your gloss coat. The simple solution : in those spots where you have the little bit of wash left, a damp (not wet) q tip and remove the excess. The proper solution : glossing with no orange peel (which I’m admittedly still working on, by no means an expert) what I’ve read / learned from automotive painting websites, etc. is high pressure high flow when airbrushing gloss, though we don’t want it dripping, it does have to ‘flow’ and ‘pool’ on the surface to a degree. From what I understand, orange peel is little droplets of gloss lying on the surface and drying, i.e. there is not enough gloss on the surface for all those droplets to join and create an even coating. Personally, using Vallejo’s gloss thru my airbrush, I just can’t get it right. Using Krylon acrylic gloss from a rattle can, I get a lot better of a coating. My solution, I’ll be using the Krylon rattle can. Now, the Flory wash can work a lot better, and though there may still be the stain left, it is fairly easy to remove using the damp q tip. (Myself, I dip the q tip in a little standing water, squeeze it out with my fingertips, then run it over my arm / face to make sure it is almost dry, I’ve found this gives me the results I want).
This is only what I’ve found in my experience, you guys may be a lot better at this than me or find different issues.
Hope it helps.
To try and give some help to eightfooticeman I’ve had a look at some other sites and the only suggestion is use ISO but be very very gentle. I’d be tempted to try with a small brush, do a little then really wash it with water as a test and see how you go.
I know its not much help but I can say from my search you are not alone!
Phil
Try wiping off with windex, it may not attack the acrylic paint underneath quite as bad as ISO. But sounds like you let the wash dry too long. This does make it hard to wipe off, especially if you have a glosscoat that was rough or uneven, trapping the wash on the surface. I know on this website Phil said you can wait up to 20 min to half an hour before wiping it off, but I found its best to wait 10-15 min. If you wipe off too much the first time do a second wash.
Nathan T is right. Make sure you have a good coat of gloss (Future) down first, then do your washes once the clear is dry. I’ll typically do, for example, both upper wing surfaces and when I finish, I’ll go back to where I started and clean it up with q-tips damp with Windex. Have not had any problems as of yet.
Vallejo + Windex = Gunk.
I love oil paint washes. They are fool-proof due to their slow drying time.
Came across this post after a frantic search. The Windex solution worked. No amount of water and rubbing would take the Vallejo wash off. All I DID manage to do was to knock bits off my Stuka from the frantic rubbing with towel and water.
I used the windex with some gentle rubbing and then rinsed with water. Now I just have to glue my bits back on.
Before I found this thread I was ready to throw the Stuka in the trash and start all over.
Flory wash over Alclad clear gloss. I’ve had no issues…
Joe
I am very upset. I applied this wash, hoping to be able to just take it off with a paper towel. After that failed I tried with Windex. I put a bunch of windex on and got most of the wash off, but it also took a lot of my paint off and damaged 2 decals. Very frustrated.
Love the 390th patch