Been trying Vallejo acrylics on a scratchbuilt styrene plastic ship model…even with a primed surface I find that the Vallejo rubs off very easily, with even minimal touching. Has anyone else experienced this with the Vallejo acrylics?
Only on PE, but all paints rubb off easily on PE. With Vallejo paints and other brands you need to let the paint cure for at least a day it you are going to handle the model a lot. If you do plan on handling the model a lot you should spay on a protective coat.
Marcus
Are you thinning the Vallejo, and if so, with what?
Brush? Airbrush?
Priming with what?
Model Air? Model Color?
What does PE mean ? Inquiring minds want to know.
Happy modeling Crackers [:|]
PE is Photo Etch… metal:brass, steel, or other
Thanks Stikpusher. I thought PE ment Physical Education. The exercises kids go through in the gym at school. Not exactly in keeping with paints for modelers.
Happy modeling Crackers[:)] [t$t]
Yes PE means that as well. Especially to most of the parental English speaking world. I kinda get peeved at times by all the acronyms thrown out by modelers on these forums. But that’s just me getting cranky as I age… IPA will always be India Pale Ale in my mind and not Isopropyl Alcohol. That should be IA… or is IA Internal Affairs???
In particular this time of year in the NH (Northern hemisphere), curing times should be ALAP. (As long as possible). After a full cure, there should be no reason why a main stream paint will lift up.
With any kind of paint it is hard to get it to stick to PE. You must use a good metal primer, and it helps to clean with solvent first, and even do an acid etch before priming.
I have done something similar to Don. I went to acid etching primer from the auto parts store. Learned quickly to decant it first (spray through a straw to fill a small plastic medicine cup) and then airbrush or brush it on to keep the coating thin. Right out of the can on the back of small PE was not effective LOL
Can also refer to PetroleumEngineering.
Although, at my U, the preferred diminultive was"Pet-E" with the occasional use of “pete.”
My Accounting friends will tell you PE refers to “per each.”
For a number of my peers, PE represents their licensure with the State as a registere Professional Engineer.
It also occurs that PE can refer to Polyethylene, a polymer.
The world is filled with wonder, and many acronyms.
I worked in Europe a few years back and I have “PE” after my name on business cards in reference to professional engineer. A couple people asked me why I had a reference to being a personal trainer on my business card because they all read it as physical education LOL
Don, I usually just wash or wipe the PE with lacquer thinner & then spray it before I cut it off the tree . I have never had any trouble with it, but then I never handle it after it is on the model. I do touch it up after glueing it on the model.
For primer when I use it, I find that auto primer in a spray can is very thin & no trouble. On car models if I want to use lacquer finish paint, as long as I use lacquer primer it is fine & the colored lacquer does not hurt the plastic. I use a white primer & spray thru a straw into an airbrush small bottle & airbrush it on.
The little I have used Valego, I don’t like it & it dries up to fast in the bottle. I don;t use any MM acrylic if I am going to mask over it, because it always peels off even over primer. I never have any trouble with Tamiya acrylic & have used it for years. I usually don’t even prime under it & it doesn’t peel. I use denatuered alcohol to thin Tamiya. I find their thinner dries up faster too.