I have the resin I use for other projects, you combine it with the ultraviolet light somewhat similar to what women use when they get their fingernails done it hardens when the UV light hits it, I was considering using it if and when I had a broken part, and was wondering if anybody else has done this using UV resin to repair broken parts
Hi John, I’ve seen someone on here who said he used the UV light/glue set-up and was pleased with it. Don’t remember who or when but seen ads in Micromark’s catalog for them. It shows putting the parts in a UV box after the glue is placed on the joints. Others have a UV pen that you shine on the glued joint. Supposedly doesn’t take much time to cure. One thing I do remember is that it has a fairly large price tag.
Stay safe.
Jim [cptn]
go on Amazon and the ladies use UV resin to put fingernails on and what not I’ve seen. The price on Amazon is relatively inexperienced with the fairly inexpensive UV light. Actually it’s a pretty cheap ultraviolet Lite
I purchased it to get something that came with. It was a kit and it actually works. Okay you get the resin and the UV light wasn’t very expensive
What kind of broken part are you talking about? A broken plastic part on a model? If that’s the case, the best way to repair that is usually going to be Tamiya Extra Thin. That will weld the two pieces of the broken part together. I have used that many times with some of the more spindly model parts that sometimes end up getting broken. Hold the two pieces together, tap a little glue on them, wait about 10 seconds, and gently press them together. Let that harden overnight, and the part should be almost as good as it was before it got broken.
For a UV curing glue, I use a product called Bondic. The glue comes in kind of a pen-like applicator, and it has its own UV light built into the end opposite where the glue comes out. I seldom use it for any kind of repair though. I mostly use it to make instrument lenses by putting a little of it into the instrument face, and then hitting it with the built-in light.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018IBEHQU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The key is to experiment with different things. You’ll find what works best for you and what doesn’t.
The UV was just a suggestion it’s something I’ll need to experiment with just wanted to mention it to the group as an alternative. Haven’t really tried on anything yet, but your suggestion is using it for lenses is great. Thanks for the tip
I have used UV resin for canopies and windows To get a good bond it is impotant to shine the laser at the correct angle so the light really enters the crack. For a break repair I would do both sides. I would also set it outise on a sunny day for 30 minutes or so for extra strength after the first UV cure.
I use the UV resin for lenses on instruments and automotive guages. The stuff is amazing at that and looks incredible. As far as using it for repairing something, I have no idea. It would depend on the damage and what it was, etc. I think there are usually better ways to repair things, but that is a case by case basis. Right tool for the right job, etc.
100% agree. I would add as others may have mentioned, get good UV Resin. My first go of trying it, I purchased some from a Walgreens. Terrible stuff, and it tainted my opinion of using UV resin until I purchased better stuff. Night and day difference.
I did use the Bondic UV curing glue to repair a coffee mug handle that had broken off. It worked well for that. [H]
Hey EagleCash… how bad is the smell with Bondic? The Walgreens stuff was unbelievable. I had to bag and store it where I was not anywhere near it. I purchased Solarez, mainly for clear parts and such and it has low fuming. Barely notice it. Just curious about the Bondic.
Hey Bakster. If Bondic has a smell, I sure can’t detect it…and I’ve got a pretty sensitive nose. The stuff is great. I usually squeeze a little drop of it out of the pen onto a sticky note and apply it with a toothpick. Then you just flip the pen around and squeeze the sides of the built-in UV light to cure it. It has a little coin cell battery inside it and squeezing the sides completes the circuit for the light.
. Hey Eaglecash, thanks for the info. Appreciate it. I will keep this in mind…
Hi Jim:
I don’t remember the price, but my Bondic pen and refill didn’t use up a Twenty. Stuff is odorless and works great too! Had change left for one Kit-Kat!
I use UV resin a lot. You can buy it and inexpensive UV “Flashlights” (Make sure it has the right wavelength for the resin, usually 395 nm) from amazon. It has the strength similar to CA. It is not tacky and unlike CA will not stick to your skin and will not set until you expose it to the UV.
I use it a lot for PE, especially when I attach the PE to plastic. For example if I use PE railing to a ship deck, I can put drops of the resin on the deck, position the reailing on it and i can make sure itr will not adhere to the deck until I am pleased with the positiion.
It is also great for rigging lines, it will not stick until you weant it to. If you are unhappy you can wipe it up and try again.
Rob