Does Model Master Metalizer have to go over bare plastic?
I masked the areas of this F-15E that I wanted to paint with metalizer after the Gunship gray was painted and found that I made a mistake and missed an area on the top and bottom that should have also been done in Metalizer.
So now do I try and strip the paint from those area only, or do I polish the paint real shiny in those areas and paint them the same as the bare plastic areas with the Metalizer?
Is it possible to mask those areas that were painted and then brush some Castrol Super Clean on them with a Q-tip and remove the paint that way?
I would think that might work. I need to do some touch-up on one vertical stabilizer anyhow so a little extra won’t matter.
mike
Several years ago I did a rare nmf model (a 1/72 F-86) and used the Model Master Metalizers. As I had been told that tape would lift the metalizers just like silver enamel, I prepainted those areas the would be painted a different color (anti-glare panel, wing tip and vertical stab/rudder etc) and then masked them off. There was over spray under the metalizer but it didn’t really show up in the final finish.
Having said that, I realize that I may have lucked out in that particular instance, so would reccomend you try the metalizer over the primer on a hulk. Might save you some time and energy in the long run.
Mike, although I am not a fan of the MM Buffing Metalizers, I think you could get by with just a light sand or polish in the area and then spray the MM. You will probably see some tonal difference, but real AC NMF isn’t uniform either due to heat, oxidation, and general weathering.
I am thinking maybe I can just spray the Future coat on it and use the smoothness of the future as a base for the Metalizer. If I give the Future 48 hours to dry and spray the metalizer in thin coats I think I should be alright.