So preshade and paint the red. One side red, the other side to go.
Pretty pleased so far. I’ve base painted the hull NATO Black, and will post shade it a little.
That “dark” colour could very well be a bright red. The human eye is very sensitive to green, grass-eating monkeys that we once were, it is not so sensitive to red and blue. Black and white films were sensitive to green, otherwise they would not be terribly useful as photographic media, but sensitivity to blue and particularly to red was an optional extra. A b/w film that records green and blue and is blind to red is perfectly useable for most photographic purposes, and was actually quite common back in the day. On such a film, pure red would be recorded as black. Some b/w films recorded red, some did not, and unless you know the type of film used for a particular b/w image it is highly unsafe to draw conclusions about subject colour, even tonality is suspect. (Besides, it was quite common to use different coloured filters on the front of the lens to darken the blues of the sky or to improve separation between the different greens in vegetation for example, which would further skew the recording. And this is before the vagaries of development, retouching and printing are considered.)
Great info, Staale. Glad I went with red.
Incidentally, this is why you sometimes see a red ‘safe light’ in old darkrooms for developing film. If one was working with film that was was not sensitive to red this red light bulb did not affect the exposure and the photographer did not have to work blind when doing the development.
Looking interesting…
Well, now all you have to do it to pick a nice green for the “cut” edges, since a red would be too subtle.
Say Morrison, not that I am casting any stones here but… where are we on this?
[:|]
Good day,
Nice job done! and good progress !
watching details in your model, and …had question… diesel must be connected to the generator via red.gear box …or straight to the generator,depends on engine rpm…I see engine, kind of device connected to its aft shaft end ,which could be schematic flywheel or gear box, such size too smal for generator… but than …nothing… looks like generator missed? … I din’t know, probably I’m wrong … ? how it should be on real submarine/prototype of your model?
BRGDS
Kirill
Hi " G " ;
I have been following this build because I have a few of these . Question ? Are you going to thin the edges of the opening to a somewhat scale thickness ? I do this on the Cutters and everyone seems to like them better that way . Just asking because my subs all heve thinned edges on the openings .
I also did this . I took one of the sides from the Non-Interior version and Vac - Formed a window which was cut down and fit into the opening to ensure the look of a full hull and it’s lines . It looks neat that way and ensures that dust will not enter the sub while on display .
I got the idea from Renwal’s and Revell’s - U.S.S. George Washington models with the clear sides . Even in Planes if it’s got clear , I will build some framing on the clear side shadowing off ( thinning ) to nothing in the visible interest points .
This makes it looks like you and other viewers have “X-Ray” vision looking at the subject . Kinda like the old car pictures in ads and brochures and Magazines of the fifties . I still have the foldout " Ghosted" drawing of the" Titanic " from national Geographic ." I hope I finish that afore I am gone . T.B. P.S. A friend and fellow modeler is figuring out how to use Low-brightness L.E.D.Tape ( from model railroading ) to shed light on the back areas of the insides of both my cutters and the subs .
Would be great to see photos of your work described above.
Well, I am going to wrap this one up. There’s been a series of distractions, but it’s time.
I decided not to thin the outer hull, although thats a good idea. But it’s dark gray- black face and edges, so it’ll just be not real visible.
I did build the pressure hull out of the thinnest stuff I could find.
I thought about making the “aperture” in the pressure hull covered clear, because I started with a clear plastic bottle. But right away, I realized that takes precision skills I don’t have. Glue, clouds from CA on clear styrene etc. just too difficult.
Wonderful!
XXXDAn
Well;
I gotta say . What a nice job ! Love it .
T.B.
It looks excellent, GM. Nice job. Another keeper!
Thank you, all.
Currently I have a major issue with Tamiya tape residue. Any ideas how to get it off of Tamiya acrylic paint?
I tried alcohol- bad idea.
I tried soapy water. Maybe nothing.