The WEM has enough rails to replace the Trumpeter PE, which doesn’t really cover much more than the Admiral’s walk area. Why they only did that one portion of the ship mystifies me. There are some duplicates with the Trumpeter PE, so I’ll have some spares for future projects. I’m about to start working on adding parts to the 12 pounder guns. There are 3 pieces for each gun in the WE set, and I may augment the gunsights with very thin rod to make the actual sights. the 0.5 mm rod I have is too bit, so I may have to hit the hobby store this weekend to see if there is maybe 0.25 rod available.
I haven’t tried to put any pictures up here yet, so I’ll have to look into it to see how it is done. Once I figure it out, I’ll let you know.
I am somewhat embarrassed to admit that, after searching the instructions for at least 5 minutes, I can’t find where these units go [:$].
I had thought they might be around the stacks since that’s mainly what is shown other than the hull. I guess I just need a little help here - I don’t even know what they are. Anyway, here’s the page and my plea for some assistance:
Those are the three anchors that go on the bow. Why Trumpeter has you assemble them here in this particular step is a little bit of a mystery…you don’t need them or install them for quite some time later on. HTH! [;)]
There is a “tutorial” up in the general question section of the forums. The main thing is to have a photo sharing site with your pictures, I use Photobucket. Then after you have your pictures uploaded, you can copy and paste them on your post. There are a couple more steps, but they are covered in the tutorial.
Mike,
Bill is correct, those mystery things are the anchors and yes, I too had a time trying to figure them out until I looked at the pieces on the sprue and had my a-ha moment.
Steve
I have been gluing PE hatches and skylights on the deck as well as painting the inside of of the hull flat black. I intend to use Krystal Klear on the port holes and a plastic tube on the hawse holes. Pictures to follow.
I put on hatch covers for the foc’sle deck after I put the wood deck on, as I noticed there was a small overhang on the covers, (maybe due to the WEM set being made for what is apparently a slightly larger Zvezda kit). I’ve now started working on adding the PE parts to the 12 pounder guns. It isn’t as bad as I was thinking, and it’s actually sort of fun putting those little guys together.
The Eduard hatches also have a bit of a overhang but I am not too worried if I decide to use the ArtWok deck, I’ll just have to finagle it a bit.
As promised, here are a few more pictures of the build and where I am at. I painted the interior Model Master Flat Black 1949 so that the scuttles will have a bit more depth and also to make sure that the interior is dark. I plan on gluing a piece of sheet styrene between the hawse holes even though I will attempt to glue on plastic/rubber hoses to represent the structure between the deck chain holes and the hawse holes on the sides. Right now, you can see right through them and down into the hull.
I started on the hatches PE so that I can get used to working with it again. Last time I used PE was on the Revell 1/72 U-Boat VII-C two years ago. I did forget to prime the PE although it will get primed with the deck after I get them all on. I am also trying out Gator Glue for the PE. It works pretty well, although I have to slow down since it does not have the instant+/- hold that Cyno glue has.
After I finish the PE on the decks and other sub structures, I am going to pre shade with either black or dark grey.
That looks great so far. One piece of PE that I wish either Trumpeter or WEM had included was the grates for the hawse pipes. Also, WEM only provided 4 chain stoppers in their set, but the Kagero book shows 5. Guess I’ll have to decide who gets left out!
Here is a bit of a close up. I have adjusted the right hatch on the middle skylight, which is one of the reasons I like Gator Glue. Another is that I was able to clean up with some water the extra glue I got on the deck.
Looking good Steve! Gator glue is great stuff and something I use all the time for PE like this…very forgiving and a good work time to allow for things to be adjusted if needed.
I finally got the first 12 pounder assembled. I used the 3 PE parts on the WEM PE set, and added a pair of .01" round strips to make the gunsights on the guns. It is a slow process because the PE covers all the most convenient places to hold the part with tweezers, and I have been using white glue to assemble them, so I put on a couple parts and let them dry. I also was able to add another coat of gray on the hull where I had some sort of issue with the finish. I’m giving it the week to dry before I mask it and paint the bottom of the hull red. By that time, I should have more guns built, which I will add to the superstructure along with the doors that cover the gunports.
Thanks Bill, you have really gotten much more than I have at this point.
Ships, It sounds like you’re having fun with the 12 pars, war too much fun. This is my first foray into 1/350th scale and I cannot believe how small and delicate some of these parted are!
Here are the corrections to the skylights and I was able to get the prop shafts switched out with metal. I now need to addd the strengthening bars on the hull with some Evergreen strips and use some screening for the deck hawse holes which Eduard does not provide.
Interesting, I thought I was not going to do any scratch building on this model…
Looking good Steve! I hear you on the ‘didn’t think of doing scratch building’…I had the same, momentary, ideas myself…and now find myself eyeing brass rod replacements for the masts in order to support the rigging given the delicate nature of the kit-supplied parts. [:D]
One quick question, have you decided to forgo the Artwox deck in favor of the kit planking yet or are you still undecided? I ask only because of how tight I found the Wood Hunter deck fit to be on things and I assume the Artwox might have similar issues? Since you’ve already fitted some of the Eduard stuff like the skylights and those are bigger than the molded-on pieces, you might have to do some extra trimming work to make the Artwox fit properly and it’s much easier to do that now vs. later while you still have the decks separate if you’re still going to go the Artwox route.
I have given some thought to replacing the shafts with brass, and I think you have inspired me to do so. If I go that route, I may also buy the brass props that are available. Fortunately, that can wait, because I also am working on the FFG-57 Reuben James, and it needs the Pontos upgrade set. That’s right, it spoke to me, begging me to buy some more brass to make it shine!
Thanks! I have to admit that I’m starting to add more and more scratch built parts now. I just added the the armor bands along the hull and added Evergreen strips on the hatches that Eduard missed. I believe that the Pontos includes the forgotten hatches. I used the Anatomy of the Ship - HMS Dreadnought as well as the Kagero book to figure out what went where, for the hatches and bands. And like you, I am going to replace the masts with brass rods because the kits one would never hold up, even with EZ Line.
Regarding the deck, I plan on painting the decks first to see how it looks, if it looks good then no, I won’t use the Artwok deck. I plan on trimming as you suggested to get the deck over the hatches so I am not TOO worried about the deck fitting. I really appreciate the heads up, I could have forgotten all about it until it was too late with my memory! Your ship is looking awesome by the way. I like the Insignia Red much better with the Gray on there now. I have read that the Royal Navy used a even brighter red than the US Navy did. I have been trying to find RN Anti-Fouling Red by WEM but have not been successful. Heck I cannot even find Norfolk Anti-Fouling Red 65A! Even searching the Web hasn’t given me hard evidence yet; however, I might not be using the right search phrases.
Ships,
I am happy that I replaced the prop shafts with brass rod. Marcus used 1.0mm rod and I used .81mm and it worked fine. I also know all about those “voices” but I try… to not listen to them ALL the time! I also have the brass props from G-Factor. They were a bit of trouble getting off the tree and cleaning them up and I am not going to use them since the kit props are nice and after painting with bronze they are as nice as the metal ones.
Here are a couple of pictures of where I am at right now. As stated earlier, I added the armor bands using the 1/350th scale line drawing in the Kagero book as well as the AOTS book as backup. If you look hard you’ll be able to see the strips I added to the hatches.
