Trumpeter 1/350 CV-10 Yorktown

Anyone build this carrier and use Tamiya paints? Kit provides Gunze colors and there is no H366 Blue Grey. I do have pretty much every Tamiya paint color. What color would the inside of the carrier be below the flight deck…if I put the deck elevators half way down? The only thing that I don’t like about Trumpeter instructions is there is no painting instructions provided in the step by step build.

Any Tamiya paint color advice, Yorktown websites or other build/paint reviews for this carrier would be very much appreciated!

During WWII, US Navy aircraft carrier hangar bulkheads and overheads were painted white. The decks inboard of the rollup hangar doors were painted Standard Navy Deck Gray #20 – the same as the pre-war color. Weather decks outboard of the rollup doors were painted in Deck Blue 20-B.

There are no exact out of the bottle matches for US Navy WWII colors in the Tamiya line of paints. They want to sell you their colors - so they do not cite the other manufacturer’s paint line. The most accurate out-of-the-bottle paints for WWII US Navy (and others) colors are the Colourcoat line of paints from White Ensign. They are enamels.

Alternatives:

MM Acryl II Marine colors - they are out of production but may still be found via some online sources.

PollyScale makes some acrylics which are close but not totally accurate. They are in production

Order a set of paint chips from Snyder and Short and custom-mix your paints using the chips as a color standard

Panther 88

As always Ed has given you some great info. If you want to follow a long thread on building the Trumpeter 1/350 Yorktown II here is a good link.

http://www.shipmodels.info/mwphpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4802

This link should give you some additional information you might use.

Dick Wood

Thanks for the info. Living in Canada the down fall is it costs me a fortune to order paint chars and white ensign paints. My model store carries Model Master enamels, Humbrol enamels and a bit of Tamiya and Gunze. The Humbrol line has 100’s of colors, I will just have to pick and match best I can I guess.

Thanks again for all the information.

There is [or was] a shop in Ontario [?] that stocked White Ensign paints. I know that they might not be a convenient drive for you, but they may be able to help with in-country mail order. I don’t have the name handy. I’ll post the question to John Snyder at WEM and get back to you. John & the WEM crew is at the IPMS UK Nationals this weekend - so don’t look for an answer before the first of the week.

Thanks I really appreciate that.

I reviewed the long 29 page post as noted above. Most of the picture shots in this long thread I could not tell if there are seems in the flight deck (as the kit has the deck in 3 peices). I have seen other builds where they flip the deck part over on a flat surface, cut the joint tabs off and glue together upside down and reinforce with thick plasti-card. But my question is where there seams in the flight deck on real WWII carriers? My concern is I have the deck peices together but I do have a fine line gap when I turn the completed flight deck over. Do I try to putty/fill these 3 gaps because the detail in the flight deck is very nice and fine.

This is sorta ot but I served on the USS Intrepid CV-11 in 1966. Your question about seams reminded me that in a heavy rain squall those expansion seams in the flight deck would allow water to pour into the hanger bays and from there it would run out the scuppers. It only soaked the unwary.

Forwarding a message from John Snyder at White Ensign Models …

“Both North Star Hobbies and D+B One-Stop Hobby carry Colourcoats (though neither has the full line). He can reach Dave Payne at D+B at thea@rivernet.on.ca, or Sheldon Tkatch at North Star at sales@northstar-hobbies.com. Both shops also have websites.”

You should be able to locate their websites by googling their names. Be sure to mention that they were recommended by John Snyder

I am familiar with NorthStar, been there many times but not in the last 2 years or so. Okay, that is great, thanks for the info, I will also be sure to mention the reference.