Dave, thanks for the best wishes on the bid but didn’t work out. Leaves more time for models this weekend though! [;)]
Nice work on the details. The Ausf A-B-C were basically experiments in their own right before the D became the first “true” production run vehicle produced in any great quantities. They played around with a lot of different things and of course the experience in Poland also played a role in shaping the IV. As you mentioned, the IV is the true “workhorse” of the Wehrmacht…the only design to serve from start to finish as a gun tank in fact although it did undergo modifications of course in its evolution. [;)]
Congratulations? I’m sorry? I’m so sad I’m happy for you [:S] Or is it the other way around? Thank you for the compliment on the details. I was putting on the spare track mounts and noticed that on the inside aspect of the bottom there is recessed screw head detail. This kit (pretty much Tristar in general) is loaded with detail. Just be careful and take your time with it. These babies don’t just fall together. In all, it really is a nice kit. I don’t remember if I had mentioned it to you or someone else but, I’d love to see an early Pz III with the funky leaf spring suspensions. Talk about your early prototypes.
Bill,
Thank you for checking in on the build my brother. I love the detail that they put into this kit. I’ll be working on the rest of the OVM goodies today. I should know better…when I start thinking about laying some color down I need to add at least another week before it will even be close to happening. More stuff to clean up and wee parts to put in their place. Give my regards to Edmund. [:D]
I’ve been putting on the small fiddley stuff last. The theory being that it won’t get broken off if I save it for last right?[*-)]. As least that is what I’m hoping.
The track tool and ladder were each three piece assemblies.
I had originally thought to put the jack block on after it was painted. When I realized how the multiple parts for this assembly were going to go together, I thought otherwise. Which is how I’ll be painting this kit. Fully assembled. With the exception being the running gear.
The caveat to the above is the spare tracks holders. The track links will be easier to paint and, then add to the fenders.
The cupola hatches were put on today since I found a TC figure with a beret to place in the opening
I’ll be using the TC figure. Maybe some of the others as the Pz will be but on a base. The bogies articulate and, it would be a shame not to take advandage of that.
The PE chains were finally put on. To mount them to the hull, I drilled the hull and used a rivet. To mount them to the pins, I cut across the end of the handle with a razor saw and glued it with CA.
The same technique was applied to the towing pin.
The chains for the smoke candles actually went fairly quickly. The time from cutting, annealing, and mounting was maybe 20 minutes
Bill, I haven’t kept a tally of the time spent on the fine detail stuff but, I’ve been having a blast with it. I was able to lay down the base color today. The color du jour is Lifecolor Schwarz Grau. That stuff goes on wonderfully. Opaque and even coverage. The detail was never obliterated. cheers Dave
Bill, Two-tone??? There’s my new thing I learned today. I was not aware of a two-tone scheme. The one I had decided on is one of six choices that comes with the kit. 4 Panzer Regiment, 10 Panzer Division, France 1940. The one with the white reverse stenciled bison. Cheers Dave
All vehicles Nov 1938 to June 1940 (scheme was ordered first in Nov 1938 and vehicles on hand at that time were supposed to be repainted in the new scheme in the field) were ordered to be delivered in two-tone camo consisting of 2/3 Dunkelgrau and 1/3 Dunkelbraun. Scheme doesn’t show up well in b/w photos so it’s often the case that it is assumed that all German vehicles were monotone Panzer Gray until the switch in 1943 to Dunkelgelb. This has been perpetuated for decades by all the major manufacturers in terms of the finishing guides only calling for Panzer Gray, however at no time prior to June 1940 was an order issued for a single color scheme in Panzer Gray as the pre-Nov 1938 scheme was a three-tone arrangement first used by the Reichswehr.
Here’s what the scheme looks like, the color plate appears in Panzerwaffe Volume Two: The Campaigns in the West 1940 by Mark Healy and is posted here for discussion purposes only. The volume also has several very sharp/clear large photos in b/w of various vehicles that makes it possible to see the scheme so this isn’t just a case of a color plate fantasy by an artist as can be the case sometimes. [;)]
Sorry it took so long to reply. Thank you so much for the info! I love it when you guys add items like this to a thread. I may have to do another early Pz IV build just so I can do the two tone scheme. I’ve got a couple of others lurking in the stash.
These pics are a bit out of order as I did not have access to the computer do load these of the aerial. As you can see by the package it is by Aber and, they come as a three pack. This is the same one I used on my Panther build. I liked it so much I picked up a couple more packs for the parts stash. The compare and contrast pic will speak for itself on how much better appearing the Aber aerial is to the stock one.
I just couldn’t resist added an even smaller part.
You’re cracking me up![:D] Thank you for the compliment. Not very much done on the tank. I got the springs painted with Vallejo Dark Rust. I’ve got a big honking set of Abteilung oils in a box downstairs that I’m not allowed to open until my birthday. [:'(] I’m cracking that baby at midnight tonight. I’ll be getting more detail painting done this weekend. I shifted focus today and started on the base. More on that in a bit.
I cut this with a jig saw and routered the edges, hit it with some sand paper. The stain used is a polyurethane based, Bombay Mahogany.
The tree was made from 22 and 20 gauge florist wire twisted together.
Not a great detail shot of the tree. I was having a heck of a time getting it to focus. This was as good as it gets.
My wire/cable cutter. Park Tools… not just for bike maintenance anymore.
This is the tree after coating it with a hot glue gun using low temperature glue sticks. I’ve tried the dual temp sticks and I don’t think they work as well. I’ll get this baby painted tomorrow. Just trying to decide how I want to do the foliage.
Dave~ Excellent work so far on the panzer–really looking great
I love the tree too–I’ve seen some really realistic stuff done this way–your making me wanna try my hand at it too—that thing should look awsome.
Now I guess three will be some groundwork the tree is attached to, yes? Coveing most of the plinth? I noticed the polyurethane stain raised the grain of the wood–very normal–requires some light sanding and re-staining if you want to get a smooth look to it–if only the edges will show in the end, that’s not much area to continue finishing…
Been making hot glue and wire trees since the early 90’s for model RR layouts, they’re cheap and work great in all scales. For young birches, maples and popples use the side of the hot cone of the glue gun and run it slowly along the trunks and branches for a smooth bark effect. For rough bark like oaks and elms use the side of the cone in a quick wicking/lifting motion toward the bottom of the tree.
I just paint the trunks with the color of the bark of the tree being modelled and dry brush with oils for high lights.
I like to finish the branches with dark green clump fooliage dusted with one shade lighter ground foam held on with 3M spray tack. When that sets up hit it with 2 shades lighter ground foam for a nice 3D effect.
I use similar techniques for pines but use pieces of split cedar shakes that have been rounded for the trunks. Nice to see someone else using the hot glue and wire technique, hope more people pick up on it. Fantastic build and keep up the great work!
Thank you my brother for your continued support. I picked up some color for the tree. I’ll post some of it when I figure out how to get some more done on the beastie. I got to open my B-day present this am. See the last pick. OOOOOH BOY HOWDY!!!
Indy,
Thank you for the compliment and checking in on the build. The tree was about 15-20 minutes work. There will be ground work covering most of the plinth. I lightly sanded and steel wooled the base today and, then gave it its second coat. I looks much better today. There will be about a 1/4 - 3/8" edge around the base before the ground work covers the rest. The base will be approx three tiered. The Tree at the highest, next the road with the tank and , then the lowest will be closest to the viewer.
Shoot&scoot,
Thank you for the compliment and stopping by. Thank you so much for the quick toot on tree making. I like the hot glue effect because, how can you mess it up? Some others at the LHS have asked about some of my other practice trees and told them about the hot glue approach. They liked it even more when I told them that one tree was only about 15-20 minutes work. Not included color or foliage. They liked the idea. I’ll be doing more of these. I’ve got a kit in my stash, a 88mm PAK and, I have an idea rolling around in my head about placing it under heavy cover. We’ll see.
Here is the bison reverse stenciled. I touched it up but the unforgiving digi won’t let it go. Looks like there may be more to do.
I painted the exhaust with Vallejo Dark Rust. I be hitting it later with MIG light and standard rust. Probably with oils as well.
Here is what my lovely wife got me for my B-day. A bunch of 502 Abteilung oils, Light rust effects, Standard rust effects, Water marks effects, and a couple of brushes. I think she likes me.
cheers Dave
