Trap for the unwary

[Fast_Heinz]

Hi all

The photos below are of an old Panther that i use as a paint mule. If i have an idea or want to try a new technique, i test it on an old model such as this first. In this case i wanted to try the “salt chipping” method of creating chips on an AFV, with the end-scheme being a Pz III in North Africa.

I sprayed the Panther in Panzer Grey as the undercoat. The next step was to be applying the salt in selected areas, but i wondered if i should seal the undercoat first to avoid rubbing it away when i brushed the salt off later. To find out, i sprayed the front half of the PAnther with a couple of coats of Future. The rear end i left unsealed.

After letting the Future dry (4-5 hours) i brushed some water onto the areas i wanted to show as chipped and then applied the salt. I used ordinary table salt, nothing special. It was applied sparingly to selected areas, front and rear.

I let it dry overnight and when i came home from work it was as shown below. The salt seems to have reacted with the Future and there is now a salty layer all over the front end of the Panther. The photos are after i washed it with water all over to try to get it off, but it ain’t going anywhere.

The rear of the tank where there was no Future is fine.

I’m glad i tried it on the mule first and not the Pz III.

Cheers

[acmodeler01]

It is good that you used the new technique on an old kit.

Now, I wonder if you can re-create it, because that looks like it would be a fine way to make a white wash/ snow camo paint job.

[oleander13]

It is good that you used the new technique on an old kit.

Now, I wonder if you can re-create it, because that looks like it would be a fine way to make a white wash/ snow camo paint job.

I was thinking the exact same thing…It would look great as a worn whitewash.

[Phil_H]

I don’t think 4-5 hours is enough curing time. It would certainly be touch-dry but not fully hardened.

Are you using “genuine” Futire or one of the local Australian alternatives, and if so, which one? The common ones (Pledge One-Go and Pascoe’s Long Life) aren’t the same formulation as the “Future” that everyone else uses and has somewhat different charateristics.

[TD4438]

If I didn’t know better,I’d have thought you did an awesome job on making that Panther look as if it had burned.It looks awesome.

[Fast_Heinz]

I’m using genuine Future. I have a cousin who lives in Phoenix who kindly keeps me supplied.

[tigerman]

Yeah, a nice whitewash or burned-out hulk. I’ve heard to let Future dry for a good 24-48 hours. Nice to have the mule to experiment on. Mine is an old Italeri Crusader.

[madmike]

I don’t think 4-5 hours is enough curing time. It would certainly be touch-dry but not fully hardened.

Are you using “genuine” Futire or one of the local Australian alternatives, and if so, which one? The common ones (Pledge One-Go and Pascoe’s Long Life) aren’t the same formulation as the “Future” that everyone else uses and has somewhat different charateristics.

Both have ammonia in them, which can be really nasty on acrylics if you are not careful.

I have a couple of bottles of Future and an old half full bottle of Super Stride that work well. Super Stride is milky (no ammonia) but dries clear and glossy like Future. Super Shine replaced it about 10 years ago and I am not sure that bottling contained ammonia.

[Phil_H]

Both have ammonia in them, which can be really nasty on acrylics if you are not careful.

I have a couple of bottles of Future and an old half full bottle of Super Stride that work well. Super Stride is milky (no ammonia) but dries clear and glossy like Future. Super Shine replaced it about 10 years ago and I am not sure that bottling contained ammonia.

Yep, I have spot-tested both and prefer not to use either as a clear coat. The “Long Life” failed the “drip test” outright (paint runs) so it never made it anywhere near my models. Tried the One Go on one model and didn’t like the results, though it seems to work ok for clear part dipping.