Hello everyone im new to modelling tanks. I did 3 tanks but they are ugly, [V]especially the track’s color look out of place.
I was wondering which type of color do you use for tracks?
By the way, I use Tamiya Acrylics and thinner for my models and I have around 10 enemal paints from Model master.
Thank you for your input.[:)]
Check this thread.
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=47817
Well first off welcome!
I usally paint my tracks black - only when they are indy’s, if they are rubber band type, I just leave them the rubble color. Usally after some weathering and dusting the rubber blends.
Hope this helps, Anthony.
Go to the hobby store and obtain the following:
-one small bottle of Testors matt rust (or redish brown) enamel
-one small bottle of Testors matt dark blue enamel
-one small bottle of Testors matt black enamel
-one bottle of Testors flat clear (lacquer, not the terrible Model Master acrylic clear)
-one bottle of Testors metallic steel enamel
Wash the track with soap and water and let dry
Combine the rust and the dark blue enamels in an empty container (1:1 ratio) by simply emptying the two bottles in the the new larger container. Add some black to achieve a rusty blue-black color. This is your base color. Airbrush or paintbrush the entire track with this color. Save the remaining rusty black for step 6.
When the track dries dries overspray or paintbrush the entire track with flat clear and let dry. Don’t miss this step since tracks have to take a lot of wear and abuse while being manipulated and especially when put on the model. The clear coat will make it harder for the base enamel to rub off. Also, it will provide a protective barrier against the dissolving action of the wash that follows.
Take some mineral spirits or turpentine thinner and put some Testors rust enamel into this. This is a wash so the goal is to have lots of thinner with a few drops of enamel. Flood the track with this using a broad brush, do it liberally and don’t be shy. Let dry.
Go back to the original base of rusty black enamel from step 3 and transfer some of this to another container or a palette. Add a tiny amount of steel enamel to this and dry-brush the entire track-you want to get to all the spots but also need to be subtle-don’t paint but dry-brush. The thicker the drybrushing mixture the better.
As the last step dry brush only the raised details that come in contact with the ground, the sides (edges) and the guide teeth with pure steel
This simple technique was featured in FSM magazine and you will have a hard time comming up with something that gives better results. Always remember that tracks love to rust all over, although the polishing action of ground contact will expose nice shiny steel underneath as I have seen many times examining tracked construction machines (unfortunately I have no access to operational tanks). According to stories I have read, when the tank is on an exercise in the field even the shiny steel surfaces rust over virtually overnight as soon as the tank goes to sleep and then are stripped bare again as soon as it starts rolling in the morning. The rusting process is so aggressive.
Thank you for all the info guys. Monster Zero’s method seems very complicated but Im going to do it.
Oh…Im currently building a Stug 4 Tamiya kit in 1/35, and I my first tank was an Initial Tiger of Afrika Korp, then I did Panzer 3 J, and Stug 3.
It’s not really complicated compared to other tasks involved in building a convincing armor model. In fact, if you start in the morning you could have a painted set by the afternoon, although the finish may be somewhat sticky, requiring drying until the following day. Compare that to the other tasks which may span several months if you have other responsibilities like most people.
I’ve experimented with many different ways of painting tracks, but this is the one that I find works best:
First paint the tracks in the appropriate “mud/dust” colour (which colour you use depends on the theatre that the vehicle is based in; earth brown for Northern Europe, reddish brown for tropical areas, pale sand yellow for desert or arid areas, etc.)
Once this has dried, drybrush the tracks heavily with a gunmetal/steel colour paint. This results in the crevices of the tracks being muddy/dusty and the raised areas shiny and polished (relatively speaking). You might want to drybrush a bit of rust colour before doing this.
If the track has rubber pads, paint them black then drybrush them with a lighter grey colour.
This method also works for tyres, substituting the appropriate colour (black or dark grey) for the gunmetal/steel colour.
It’s a fairly simple + basic method and you’ll probably want to add things like weathering powders, mud, detail washes etc.
This is just the technique I use, and there are probably much better ones, but I’ve found it’s a straightforward and reliable way of producing reasonably convincing-looking tracks and tyres.
I start with black, since that’s the colour of the tracks when they leave the factory. (Abrams/Bradley tracks… gloss black. Really!)
I then drybrush the rust and steel colours.
NTM
[#ditto][#ditto]
Well…here’s how I did my Tamiya Stug IIIG for the eastern front (steel tracks):
hope this helps.
Jim[:)]
okie heres my 2 pence worth (i’m in UK) [2c]
i paint tracks all over a reddish brown, dry brush a light metal colour, then wash with a brown/black ink wash all over , i’ve read all the other guys replies and they all sound cool, so best advice is have a shot at all and see which you prefer [:)]
oops, forgot to say, Ninja, post a piccy of ya tanks , as i’m sure they ain’t ugly, hey we all started building tanks once [;)]
seriously don’t slag your own work off, that will never help you stay motivated to improve [:)]
and keep modelling !!!