Hello everyone, here’s a little WIP project I’ve going for MIS using MIG Productions BJ45 Toyota Landcruiser. This is MIG’s “old” kit without the enhanced PE updates. The inspiration came from a photograph of a Somoli technical photographed during the 1990’s…
One thing that stood out when building this kit is the time spent on clean-up! The casting blocks are fairly large and most of the parts have some flash or residue that needs to be cleaned. Once cleaned, however, the parts go together fairly well…though I did scratch my head a few times trying to figure out the fits.
Anyway, here she is built…
When it comes time for the weathering I want to try something a little different. Rather than reley on painting every effect I want to try removing layers to achieve the chips and peels. So, I have first primed the resin with Mr. Surfacer for a hard finish, then a Black color base, then finally a “primer grey” which will serve as the under-layers for the scratches/chips/scuffs.
My version of the “primer grey”,…
Of course I needed a Toyota logo on the tailgate so I googled the logo, sized it, then printed out a decal on my printer…
And finally I painted the wavy stripes of white and black.
NOTE: Please note that I do not thin Vallejo/Games Workshop colors with Lacquer thinner as shown in the above photo…only water. Moving too fast with the picture takin’.
Awesome subject and an awesome paint scheme!!![bow][tup] Can’t wait to see it weathered!
I saw another version of this kit, thought about buying it, but the price was over $120.00 and that scared me off. Just wondering, how much did you pay for this kit?[?]
Hoepfully on this build, you’ll take the time to document your steps that you use when finishing & weathering the model? Your finishes are beautiful, but I believe that I’ve yet to see an actual explanation of your methods here? That would be a great addition to the site! I would much apppreciate it, for one!
Hey everyone, thanks for the rousing send-off, it’s always nice to have great support.
Doog, yes, I will try to show the most important aspects of the project on the forum this time - thanks for asking. I can already tell that she’s going to be fighing me a little bit…we’ll see what happens.
MIG prices these at 56 Euro’s which roughly will translate to $80. BTW, this is the “old” version, there is a brand new tool line of Technicals that are much better in detail and finese available now.
the Toyota looks to be a cool build, but what facinates me is what I call the ‘subtractive’ approach to weathering–I am not 100% sure we are talking the same thing, but the way I do it is to apply any 'under colors 'you want to use, add all the weathering, then very gentley sand away the colors you used for weathering with very fine sand paper–(2000 or higher)–what is left is the streaks, scratches and such that have been ‘worn off’ thru the weathering, back down to the base paint job. this can incude scratches to the base coat or further to the primer or even the steel itself. I used this system on one of my builds 36 years ago on a Tiger I --Tamiya 1/25-- the build is VERY old and not to well done, but you can see what I am talking about in the weathering department–(it is so old the decals are flaking off!)–I also used it on my next model (33 years later) also a Tamiya Tiger I-- (1/16 scale) with a little better build and better weathering-- I wish you good luck with this type of weathering and please reply if we are any where near the same idea of how to do it–note the scratching on the the 1/16 version-- my 2 oldest builds, but I love the technique and used it in more refined ways with my newer builds— here are some pics, been seen here before, but not on this topic. tread[8D]
Yep, that’s the basic idea. (nice job on the Tigger by the way) It’s not a new idea, as you have shown, I just felt like I wanted to get out of my usual patterns.
One of the things that I like to do with my weathereing is to put a fixed element or two that I need to work around. In a few prior projects I’ve done that using a little liquid masking to get a wear pattern or chips started, this is just going to be an extension of that idea. So, along with a some masking I’m going to try adding some scratches and damage using a variant of the “hairspray” technique and also my trusty #11 blade.
Like I said, I felt like I wanted to break out of my habits and try a few different ideas.
Well, today I beat the the heck out of our little friend. Again, nothing revolutionary here, but just another approach to doing things to help me get out of some habits. The basic idea is to weather this more or less as it might actually occur - that is - with real scratches, scrapes, rubs and wear.
To this point I’ve applied the various layers of primer then sealed it, then I applied the Toyota Tan color and sealed it…then finally I painted the camo stripes.
So now begins the process of replicating some of the abuse these types of vehicles take…
After I painted the primer, but before the tan and stripes I applied Vallejo liquid mask to certain locations of the vehicle…the first step was to remove the mask to reveal spots of primer.
Next, general scratches and scrapes are made using my trusty #11 blade. Most of these marks are superficial, ie. though the camo stripes revealing the tan underneath. In the higher wear areas I worked a little harder to reveal the primer underlayer.
In addition, I used a variation of the “hairspray” tech. to achieve a “softer” type wear. For this I do not use hairspray as I have found that I can achieve scuff effects by only using rubbing alcohol and a stiff brush. A little dash of water will stop the process. I used this on areas of the interior and side running boards.
Ok, that’s probably enough abuse. Admittedly things look a bit “off” at the moment. The trick, I belive, will be tightening in back up in the upcoming painting/weathering steps.
Nice work Rick. I really enjoy your builds and this one is no exception. The step by step process for your weathering is great and truly appreciated - I actually think I’ll give that a shot on my next build. Thanks for the inspiration!
first let me say it is great to have you add your build to this site. It is always great to see another perspective and idea.
Nice work, I like the idea of the liquid mask. I presume the eraser is what you use to remove it. My luck with liquid mask has been poor. Though, I never used an eraser!!
Awesome, Rick! It looks like we’re thinking alike with the scraping-type weathering! Pretty soon, guys like us will be shooting shells at our models to replicate the “proper” weathering! LOL!
It’s looking great! I love the "zebra’ stripes too, and how the contrast of the colors really stands out in the scrapings. Should be a banner build when you’re done! Great job so far!
Thanks for sharing your methods–this is a real valuable post to the site! [:D]
Thanks guys, apprecitate your taking the time to wander by. I don’t know about you guys, but I’m always anxious to get past these awkward looking stages. Soon enough…
Michael, the eraser helps get things started, but the finger can work just as well. To tell you the truth, however, here the eraser is in the photo mostly as a prop for the article…it’s just a easy way to convey what I’m doing.
So, after brutalizing the paintjob with my Xacto and alchohol, it’s time to tighten it back up and really get started on the weathering process.
First, I spent some time working my way around the vehicle “enhancing” some of the scrapes by filling them in with a little primer color…
Some of the details and features are picked-out and defined with a pinwash application of Vallejo Chocolate Brown…
Next, a light layer of “pre” dusting is applied using Tamiya Buff and Deck Tan. These colors will help define the areas where I’ll be getting it dirty with the oils and pigments… Notice that I use Lacquer Thinner with Tamiya paints - try it, you won’t be sorry.
I use a piece of card to help protect certain areas from overspray…in this case I want to begin dust accumulations on the fenders, but not on the vehicle sides…
Keep in mind that these steps are not necesarily a one shot deal. I continually go back-n-forth between the steps until I have what I’m looking for.
Next time I should be ready to begin with the oils and pigments…
