Well, I went for it earlier today armed with the mixing information you gave me and… Success!!! I am absolutely over the preverbial moon with joy. Thank you all who helped. The finish the airbrush gave to my Challenger 2 MBT is smooth and even.
Thank you all again.
PS, I will be back soon to ask about MIG pigments… [:I]
You guys are the best. I honestly can’t thank you enough.
Tamiya acrylic was mentioned in the other thread. I’m not much into acrylic stuff unless it’s my nephew doing the airbrushing. I have tested some Tamiya through an airbrush and read lots of people’s comments about it in usenet. I’m sure it is supposed to be airbrushed with loads of thinner, such as 5 parts Tamiya thinner to 1 part paint.
actually not that much, like I said in the other thread it varies by type of paint but it doesn’t take a lot of thinner in MOST cases to spray it… even through an Aztek! I sprayed some through my Crescendo and it flowed through with ease. Ocassionally the Aztek would sputter a bit if it was a bit too righ on the paint.
Have you tested the gloss colors through the Crescendo too? They seem to be the thick ones.
I guess what I’m trying to say is: don’t feel weird if a Tamiya paint makes you feel like you have to keep adding more & more thinner to airbrush it.
With Gunze, it seems like every time we airbrush it we use a different amount to thin it. We did flat white Gunze recently, and it had to be airbrushed right from the jar it was so thin.
yeah, especially those gloss colors… gonna have a try at the clear smoke this weekend on my Dolphin HH65 I am building… it looks REAL thick and I haven’t even opened it to stir yet!
MMM, glad it worked out for you. The first time is always the hardest, especially when it’s spraying something that you’ve already worked pretty hard on. Welcome to the airbrush club, it gets easier from here on [:)]
I spray Tamiya flat, gloss, and Smoke all reduced at 3:1 at around 10-15 psi. The Smoke looks thick but it sprays pretty well.
Glad its workin bro. The reason I asked you what ab is because dif needles and such. I started back with models with an aztek (testors) and even though you found a good thin ratio, you can even thin more using a aztek and youmight be better off. The Aztek doesnt have the best airflow through it so dont be scared to thin more.
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QUOTE: Originally posted by MusicCity
cool thanks! I’ll try it on the left over canopy pieces from the Ju88 I just built… I was a bit apprehensive about it and was thinking of hand brushing it… still might, it is only 2 separate 1/2 inch canopy sections on the very top of the canopy I am tinting, so the future/color dip is out… and I can mask it, but who knows… might try the handbrush way this time… but curious all the same so will play with it on scrap canopy…