Man, I’m having a bear of a time doing this. I’m doing a 1/48 A-10 and just can’t seem to come up with a technique for painting the control panel’s instruments. I’ve tried using a pin, sharpened toothpick and a 5/0 brush, but I still can’t it to look right. I’d welcome any suggestions you guys might have.
There are innumerable techniques.
For actual painting, paint the background color for the instrument face, then dry brush the marking and bezel color. You can also use an artist’s colored pencil (Prismacolor works well, but there are others.) rubbed on the raised detail. This last is easiest to control.
Drafting pens also work well, but are a more expensive option.
I concur with Ross’ suggestions - also, if the details are VERY well defined (usually has to be 1:32 or a very good 1:48 panel), paint the interior of each dial white and let it dry well. Then, using a VERY thin black, let it run into the dial bottom, leaving the raqised white detail exposed. When dry, I like to put a drop of Future in each dial to simulate the glass face.
Brian [C):-)]
I paint the dials white with a satin paint (I’ld probably use gloss 'cause it’s harder but I just don’t have any) wait until that’s dried as hard as it’s going to get, then paint normal flat back over and after a couple minutes take a really sharp pick and lightly draw in the needles and such, taking off the black paint, showing the white underneith. I’ve found it’s way easier than trying to paint in fine white lines, then dry brush a little silver for wear and tear and put a dab of future over each dial. This is what I’ve progressed to up to now, but I’m quite happy with what turns up.
Thanks for the advice guys. All the methods mentioned seem easier than trying to paint those tiny lines.
I’ve just painted a 1/48 instrument panel. The method I used was spray everything the main panel colour. Then a drop of flat or semi gloss black into each instrument dial. I then use a brush I have cut down to about 2 or 3 quite long bristles, dip in in white and carefully drag it over the needles of the individual instruments. The key is using a little ink and dragging it over a few times to get the white to stand out. You will need some magnification to get the white paint just where you want it. Then a dry brush to bring out the edges of the dials and other instruments. Finally a drop of future to simulate the glass on the front of each dial. Then add any reds, yellows etc to switches and levers. Finally a darker wash run inbetween the instruments, swiches etc. I wait for things to dry at each step of course, so this would all be spread over a few days usually.
Paul
Thanks Paul, but me, a brush and those tiny details just don’t mesh. These old hands are just a little too shaky to accomplish a paint job worth displaying.
I just discovered this past week, and I was planning on passing it on to FSM tips gallery as well. Some probably already use this technique but I love it. I use it where ever I can.
I use a fine tip Gel pen they come in different colors. I use black where i need to get in close like the cockpit or around the wheels where the the wheel and the tire meet. I’ll go around it with the black gel pen to get close then with the brush so I don’t have to worry about brushin over the inner wheel. The silver Gel Pen comes in handy for paint chips on the outside for wear and around in the cockpit where a lot of the green or black has worn off from useage.
I’ve also used the pens to get away from painting and masking the canopies…my most dreaded part of aircraft model building.
Good Luck
Brian
If the faces aren’t very well defined, drill them out, right through, sand down the back of the panel, and glue some white plasticard at the back. Paint the interior, of the holes, black, then, when it’s thoroughly dry, draw in the dial/needles, using a sharp point, so that the white shows through. A drop of gloss varnish, and they’re done.
Edgar