THIS TIME I MEAN IT.....TIGER DETAILS

Be kind, this is my first build in roughly 25 years (I don’t count the 1/72 panzer III I threw together last summer as a test).
I just applied the basecoat and now have some decisions to make. The wealth of info from the Forum got me this far, now I need some more help. There seems to be two camps on finishing: the future-wash-clear-pastel-clear and, the paint-clear-drybrush-clear-pastel-clear. I’m comfortable doing either. I need OPINIONS, the more the merrier. This is to be Carius’ first issued VI, so it’s summer or fall Russia and I plan on a lot of mud to cover the screws and other faults of the RC kit (the top has to be removable). This is Tamiya’s 1/35, bytw.
The only AM I used was PE clamps and screens (what you see is what I could pick off the dog, the rest you ask? battle damage). All the fenders, or lack there of are the kit parts bent, folded and mutilated. Cables, tools and Carius to be added later of course.


I want to be careful not to lose the texture added to hull and turret.


Okay, let’s hear it! Both barrels!

Obviously the bits left in the dog are completely superflous, 'cos it looks really nice. I like your mutilation work in particular. Great job.

But you wanted finishing opinions! So here’s mine, although I am certainly not convinced it is the best.

Acrylic base coat.
Acrylic gloss clear. (I’d use future if I could find it…)
Decals
Add tools. Depending on circumstance.
Oil paint wash.
Dry brush with acrylics.
Flat clear, probably acrylic but not sure, keep changing mind.
Pastels.

I don’t clear over the pastels, because it changes their look. I’d like to, though. I just try not to touch it.

Good luck, I reallly like your Tiger.

Matt

If you really want to keep the texture intact, keep the coats to a minimum. Especially the Future. Those extra coats add up and obscure detail. No need to clear-coat over pastels either, it just causes them to blend in and disappear.

Looks great
i think Carius first Tiger was repaired into the Tamiya version ( its cupola was shot off and the repair men put the new stile of cupola on )
ive got Tigers in the mud but havnt read it yet

Looks good so far. Once ready for weathering I clear coat with future to seal the pores of the paint. Then do my wash. Otherwise your wash will really tend to darken the pigment of the paint. Then come back with your flat coat to seal the wash if your using artist oils. Then drybrush and then pastel. I wouldn’t clearcoat over the pastels. It messes it up.

Looks great so far. The details and damage are just fine.

Very nice, especially for a first kit in 25 years!!! If all the PE you used was the Aber clamps and some screens, I am truly impressed! The texture on the superstructure is truly fantastic!!! I can see that you have worked hard to add a lot of extra detail, and it really shows. I think the missing cap on the air filter is great.

As far as suggestions, well it looks like the side of the front hull is not flush with the top. Not sure if this is fixable at this stage, or not… Did you add wire for the s-mine throwers on the hull? The tow hook could be drilled out. If the tank was made before Feb of 1943, there should be visible holes (apertures for a periscope) above the drivers vision port for when the port is closed. One last thing that I noticed was the track brackets for the turret. I will included a pic of how they should look. Give me a half hour or so, and I will load it on my web page, and post it here.

As far as painting… I have had good luck with clear gloss-wash-drybrush-clear flat. If you are using pastes to weather, I would do them right before the final flat coat, but remember that the flat coat will make the pastels quite dull. Or, I have had a lot of luck with just using flat earth applied with an airbrush to simulate the dust on the lower hull. You might want to also add paint chips. So, a final process for my typical model would go something like this: base coat - paint chips – painted dust/mud – clear gloss – wash – drybrush – clear flat.

Hope some of my suggestions help and good luck. [:D]

here you go. If you are looking for details on Tigers, let me know. I have plenty to share.

Thanks guys, you are coming though as usual…
Capt. Caveman,
His first Tiger had the ‘tall turret’ for he really gives it the business in the book. He blasts it as a very large target able to be seen from a distance. The figure I’m creating will be in his usual pose, head just above the rim ready to drop. You’ll see he’s a big proponent of the commander using his peripheral vision and not ‘buttoning up’
Edog,
The hull seam is due to the need for the upper structure to come off for batteries and access to gears(I will attempt an inner brace to pull the lower together a little tighter, I need to set the antenna first). The track link holders aren’t finished, I’m putting three links on the left and two on the right. I will add the lower pins then and the pegs on the empty hangers (I balked at the idea of the serial numbers on the hanger tops). I opened up the turret side vision ports but decided against the periscope holes. Thanks for the pics, I have Jentz’ ‘Tiger Tanks I’, and his ‘Combat Tactics’ and ‘Panzertruppen’ are on the way. That is some seriously detailed info.
The twisted exhaust covers and rear details will be added after I ‘rust up’ the pipes.
I was thinking of using acrylic medium (sort of a paste) with ground up colors for caked mud around the wheels and fender areas, any experience with this?
Again thanks,
I’m glad finally to be able to post something besides goofy jokes about PE.

That looks great, ausf.
I first thought it was a larger scale tiger. Did you simulate the pitting on the armor? It looks good.

Dan

Dan,
I bounced a dremel (moving really slow with a flex shaft) to simulate the ‘rolled-plate’ armor texture. Here’s a pic I took for a weld question earlier in the week, it shows the size of the bit (real small)

Those closeups show nice detail…your technique added alot of realism , ausf.

Dan

Looking great ausf !!!

It seems you haven’t forgotten a few tricks in your 25 year break from building armour. The texture on the hull and the weld seams look very well done.

Keep us posted as you progress.

Did you add the pit marks on the front glacis plate ( the part with the ball-mounted MG)?
Great idea about using the Dremel tool to add realism to the kit! Look forward to further updates!

Glenn

Great-looking kitty, Ausf!
The rough surface on the armor plate is really well done.

But…you’re not gonna paint it gray? Kitties look best gray!
Everybody knows that!
…don’t they?

Sherm,
The last time I built any kit I was 14 or 15. Everything was OTS-OOB-OTY-IO (off the shelf, out of box, out to yard, into oblivion. There was no PE or resin, just what Woolworths had on the shelf, mostly Monogram. Also sadly, mostly planes. I am ashamed.[:slight_smile:]
All the tricks are from you and the everyone else here!
53ryder,
I added the pitting to all flat surfaces and cutting marks to all edges. I would love to take credit for the idea but it was from Angus Creighton’s Tamiya book.
J-Hulk,
Sorry, I’m leaning towards a sloppy crew-applied whitewash, I want Carius to have soot on his face from using oil lamps for heat like he describes his book, but I’m waiting for research into whether the cuppola had changed by then. Then of course the mud idea changes to snow and muck.

Fine build all around , excellent detail ! Aber clamps are fun huh ? Did you go crosseyed ? I know I did . One question . Where did you find the Carrius fig ? Did he come with the kit ? I have a nice home for one of his clones right now .[8D][:D]

Looks great ausf. Looking forward to more.

Sorry to say that I have no experience with this type of application. I have used baking soda mixed with paint only to find out later that this will apparently deteriorate over several years. Good luck though, and give us lots of pics of the final product to gawk over.[:D]

Very nice so far ausf. Thanks for the pictures.
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