As the dark wash accumulates in the recesses it dissolves the base paint in those nooks and crannies!!
Am I crazy or learning disabled??
In every reference I check they make is sound easy as one-two-three but I knew it would lift the paint, I knew it! Only now I spotted a comment at Tamiya’s website where they say washes are actually dangerous to the finish (gee, thanks for letting me know after 3 or 4 modeling books that mention nothing of the kind) and they recommend shading all those millions of lines and recesses with an airbrush.
Thank god I tested on the wheels of my tank so won’t have problems stripping that crap off.
Why not work with tap water with some black arylic paint added?
For this experiment I used turpentine + a bit of Humbrol matt black as the wash. The base coat is Tamiya’s Nato Green (matt).
Goddamnit, I think I’m gonna give this model to my niece’s gerbils if it doesn’t stop launching those attacks on me.
You guys think a coat of clear gloss varnish will help? I heard people say it helps the flow & distribution of the wash too.
I’m not sure how different turp and mineral spirits are, but when i was seeing what a wash would look like i used spirits and some testors black gloss enamel and nothing got lifted. The base was tamiya dark yellow acrylic.
edit: oh yea, i also tried the same thing over a coat of future which is a acrylic gloss coat and didnt notice any flow difference or any difference at all really.
I’m no expert at washes, but I used artists oils mixed with mineral spirits and spread it over Model Master Acryl paint and it did not damage it at all.
I think the tupentine is what did it.The stuff is very strong!
I use artists oil paints thinned with “Grumbacher pre-tested odorless” thinner.I also wait until the paint is fully cured,and after decaling,a coat of clear flat to boot.
Chris
Dis- regard the icon in my last reply.It’s early in the morning here,and my fingers are still a bit challenged!Where that coffee…
Chris
Your enamel-based base coat should really be dry - I mean several days dry - before attempting anything like a spirit-based wash… That’s why I use washes made with watercolors. No patience, no problem!
Check my thread in the Technique forum to see how I do it.
umm, i think… use an ENAMEL paint for the base coat,
and use an ACRYLIC paint thinned with water for the wash.
water based paints won’t eat up the enamel.
I use either base paint and overcoat with clear gloss then decal and a clear flat coat then I put on a wash. I use artist’s oils with white mineral spirits for the wash. I haven’t had any trouble with the base coat lifting.
Ladies and gentemen, mineral spirits is the correct solution. This will not eat into Tamiya acrylic paint even with intense brushing. Thanks for all assistance. And now back to the assembly table.
BTW, what is mineral spirits made off anyway? Minerals? Duh? Like fossilized mineral rocks?
what i do when painting and weathering
1: prime (tamiya acrylics)
2: basecoat (tamiya acrylics)
3: good coat of future to protect base coat from the turpentine
4: washes (turpentine and windsor & newton oil paint)
5: flatcoat (future 70% - tamiya flat base 30%)
6: dry brushing and pastels
haven’t had a problem , but since i model slowly its prety common for a model to sit for a week or 2 between coats so that might also be a factor in the success i’m having