I’ve noticed that certain colors ( I’m using Model Master Acrylics) have very poor coverage. Examples like white & tan. Appears like low pigment content. When hand painting these on small parts it’s very difficult to get uniform and complete coverage. I’m working on a Revel B17 that has some black parts (for some reason I don’t understand) and these are particularly difficult. Any tricks, better paint?
Try priming your parts first with light grey primer. Floquil primer covers great - you can get it in spray cans (check the railroad department of your hobby shop, or they also sell it as figure primer). Check for compatability with the paint system you will be using on top first, but I have had no problems with a lot of different types of paint over cured Floquil Primer.
You can also apply multiple thin coats via an airbrush, but priming black plastic first will make any other technique easier.
HTH
Kurt
Thanks - I understand what curing means but what is the general length of time to obtain a good cure? Does this hold for all paints?
The general curing time for paint can differ greatly depending on many parameters - relative humidity, temperature, amount of paint applied, amount of thinner in the paint, type of paint…the list goes on. I’ve found that in general, it’s good to prime with a “military” type of flat light grey or flat white (enamel or acrylic). They cover very well and generally dry very quickly, within an hour. Then over that goes the top coat. I’ve found that usually 24 to 48 hours should ensure a complete cure for most military flat paints, that is, they’re totally dry and you won’t leave finger prints. I’ve also found that when you can’t smell the paint AT ALL, it’s probably almost fully cured (you know - you can pick up a part painted with enamel paint and smell the paint, sometimes for days) but some automotive paints can take weeks to fully cure. Pick your poison…
I know exactly what you mean about certain colors not having a uniform “coverability” (is that a word?). I don’t think it’s just a problem only with Model Master Acrylics either. I’ve noticed it with enamels too. For some reason white, tan, and yellow have always posed a problem no matter what the brand nor if it’s an enamel or acrylic. Of course this only applies to hand brush painting. Whenever I used the exact same paints through an airbrush they go on beautifully. If the parts are too small to airbrush (radio units, seat pads, tables, etc) then I usually just flood the daylights out of it. I’ll put on a huge thick dollop of paint and then just leave it for however long it takes to cure. Sure you might wait a day and a half but it will be covered in a uniform manner. Hope this helped.
Eric
Unfortunately, I’ve only found a few ways around this issue:
- use a primer, it will help hold the paint on edges, etc.
- stir the paint really well
- if at all possible, spray the paint
- accept that you will have to put several light coats on instead of one or two heavy coats.
M.
starting with a good primer helps. then it is multiple light coats to build up.